Port guide: Split, Croatia

This Croatian port city isn’t as famous as Dubrovnik, but you might find it a much more enjoyable, lively and authentic experience.

Who goes there Ships of varying levels of size and luxury visit Split either on Adriatic cruises or wider Mediterranean cruises, which often depart from Venice or Athens. Celebrity, Cunard, Emerald, Holland America, MSC, Norwegian, Princess and Silversea are a sample of the variety.

Sail on in Get up earlier than you might normally do for this arrival, because Split hunkers behind two big islands and several more beyond, making for a quintessentially Mediterranean panorama of peacock-blue sea edges, green hills and brown rocky mountains beyond. The port itself occupies a further little sheltered bay at the foot of the old town.

Berth rites The cruise port at Split couldn’t be more convenient, sharing space with inter-island ferries and only a short 15-minute walk from downtown along a pleasant waterfront promenade. Shops, ATMs and eateries are right outside the port area, and so are taxi and bus stands if you’re aiming to go beyond town.

Going ashore Split got its start when Roman emperor Diocletian retired here in 305. His massive palace complex became the old town, later with Venetian- and Renaissance-era additions. It’s a World Heritage site, but filled with shops, restaurants and bars, so enjoy a wander. Look out for the Peristil (main palace courtyard), gateways and the cathedral, formerly the emperor’s mausoleum. West of the palace is hilly Varos quarter, with stone houses and meandering alleys, and then nature reserve Marjan, scented by pine trees. Other sights are Mestrovic Gallery, the best of several good little museums, and the Croatian National Theatre for its sumptuous imperial Habsburg interior.

Don’t miss Walking the Riva, Split’s always-busy seaside promenade, beloved of tourists and locals alike. The action kicks off with morning coffee on the cafe terraces and doesn’t stop until well after dark. Benches under the palm trees are great spots to watch ferries. The Riva is close to the cruise terminal, and if your ship lingers late then you must return for a sunset perambulation.

Get active Marjan Hill close to the city centre is the place to walk, job, cycle or follow a trail around outdoor exercise equipment. At its base is Bene Beach. On the opposite side of downtown is Bacvice Beach, a good place for a swim or paddleboard. You’ll also see traditional sport picigin played here, which defies brief explanation but involves keeping a small ball from falling into the water. Sea kayaking is another option, or you can tackle rafting and canyoning a half-hour inland.

Retail therapy Split’s old town has plenty of tourist trinkets, so if you haven’t yet succumbed to olive-oil, truffle or lavender products this is your chance. More interesting might be a bottle of Croatian wine or local fruit brandy, or confectionery from Kras, a well-known, century-old brand in Croatia – the cherries enrobed in dark chocolate are scrumptious. Split is also a good place for leather shoes. Pedestrian Marmontova Street is the place for mainstream shopping.

Further afield You have a banquet of shore-excursion choices beyond Split. Krka National Park, an hour north, features a series of cascades and a high waterfall in a forested valley. Trogir, a half-hour away, is a pretty pile of Venetian-style historic houses topped by a ruined fortress with glorious views over a bay protected by islands. You might stop at Salona on the way to see Roman ruins that include a temple, amphitheatre and early Christian churches. Some tours also take you inland to villages and medieval fortifications.