This Is How the Woman With the World’s Largest Afro Retains Her Length

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As simple as that sounds, there are still quite a few hurdles Black women face when trying to grow their hair—one of the main ones being the misconception that natural hair can’t grow long. Los Angeles-based hair colorist and co-founder of Highbrow Hippie Kadi Lee theorizes that this stigma exists because “the beauty industry doesn’t show many examples of healthy, long natural hair, which quietly reinforces certain ideas about textured hair.”

South Carolina-based hairstylist Maya Smith says the way natural hair behaves also plays a role in this stigma. “Shrinkage [which refers to how tightly curls form] contributes to the illusion that our hair is short,” says Smith. “With un-manipulated hair, it’s often hard to get an accurate visual of someone’s actual length.”

Of course, external factors like heat and chemical damage play a role in how long your hair can grow. But in general, both stylists and Martinez agree that consistency and low manipulation are key in growing long natural hair. Ahead, the experts share their tips for growing your curls and coils while keeping as many inches as possible.

Know that protective styles don’t always equal protection

“A surprising amount of people seem to misuse protective styles,” says Smith. “Protective styling does not mean tuck it away and forget about your hair for the next three to six weeks.” Smith explains that your hair will absolutely dry out if you do this.

Keeping your style in for two months isn’t a crime, but be sure to moisturize and even cleanse your scalp if you can. Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Curology medical director suggests using an anti-fungal shampoo with ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, or zinc pyrithione, which help clarify the scalp. Mizani Scalp Care Anti-Dandruff Shampoo contains pyrithione zinc, plus peppermint oil and cucumber oil, which can be soothing. An apple cider vinegar cleanser like R+Co Lost Treasure Apple Cider Cleansing Rinse can also help clarify the scalp when you’re wearing a protective style. Pharm to Table Scalp Relief Tea Tree Leave-In Conditioner and Camille Rose Mint Condition Spray contain tea tree oil, peppermint oil, and aloe which can help relieve itchy scalps.

I love braids as much as the next Black girl, but I have recently come to terms with the truth that braids aren’t the best protective style for me due to the tension they put on the scalp. “I often see individuals with textured hair struggle to grow it long because the hair has been over-manipulated with constant restyling, overuse of hot tools, and only giving their hair small breaks from protective styles,” says Lee. “This all creates unnecessary breakage.” Dr. Tolpinrud echoes this, adding that this sort of damage can lead to traction alopecia, which is hair loss caused by repeated pulling or tension on the hair, often from tight hairstyles worn over time.

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