This grand old station is the perfect place to begin a train journey

The station

Budapest Keleti, Budapest, Hungary

The journey

Budapest to Brasov, Romania, aboard the sleeper train Corona; an overnight journey of 15 hours and 20 minutes.

The departure

Keleti means “eastern” in Hungarian, and this station is indeed just east of the inner-city area of Pest, most popular with visitors to the Hungarian capital. It opened in 1884 at the height of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, of which Budapest was the joint capital. As a centrepiece of the empire it was fittingly built in a grand eclectic style with soaring facades and high ceilings, the interior decorated with elaborate frescoes. A surprising decorative element above the main entrance is a pair of statues of George Stephenson and James Watt, two Brits whose inventions were instrumental in the development of the railways. The station is well-connected to the city’s public transport and can be reached via Metro lines M2 and M4, trams 23 and 24, and various bus routes.

Safety + security

Budapest Keleti is a generally safe space. However there are occasional reports of luggage theft and pickpocketing, so exercise common sense and keep a close eye on your belongings. If you need them, luggage lockers are on the lower level of the station.

Food + drink

There are several food outlets in and around the station selling baked goods and sandwiches along with hot snacks. Just outside the station to the north-east at Verseny utca 2 is Lakomativ Etterem, a train-themed restaurant serving filling Hungarian dishes. An appealing alternative to these options is the station’s Premium Lounge, operated by the national rail company MAV. The lounge is free to enter for holders of a first-class ticket, sleeper ticket or first-class Eurail pass, from two hours before departure. If lacking these credentials, you can simply buy a two-hour lounge pass at the door for 2990 Hungarian forints ($13.50). It’s a good deal: as well as offering a calm, relaxing space with comfortable seating, lounge access includes complimentary hot sandwiches, snacks and soft drinks.

Retail therapy

There’s minimal shopping available within the station beyond its food outlets. However, the Arena Mall lies a 10-minute walk east of the station along Kerepesi ut, with an array of shops including fashion outlets. There’s also a private luggage storage business within the mall.

Passing time

As Budapest Keleti is connected to the city’s Metro network, it’s easy to do some sightseeing if you have time to kill before your train. Pop your luggage into a station locker then take an M2 Metro train seven minutes west to Kossuth Lajos ter station. From there it’s a short walk to admire the spectacular Hungarian Parliament building and the view across the River Danube. If you have time to spare, you could return to Keleti by catching the 23 tram – it provides river views as it heads south along the Danube, before turning inland to the station (a 30-minute ride).

Boarding

A large multicoloured digital destination board hangs above the central concourse, providing updated information about platforms and departure times in Hungarian, English and German. There are smaller digital screens at individual platforms. Note that the station has relatively low platforms, requiring some climbing up into trains. If you need assistance with accessibility or other issues, the customer service centre is on the station’s lower level.

The verdict

Budapest Keleti is an impressive survivor from the golden age of rail, and has been suitably updated and modernised for 21st-century travel. It’s a great place from which to set out on a European train adventure.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled courtesy of Eurail and Small Luxury Hotels of the World.