Camilla’s $138 million colour comeback takes more than kaftans

Camilla Franks is proud of being a self-taught designer, but her real superpower is optimism.

In the past 10 years, Franks has battled stage three breast cancer and split with her fiancée and the father of her daughter, Luna, while her label, Camilla, has faced US President Donald Trump’s erratic tariffs and the bankruptcy of her American stockist Saks global, operator of Saks Fifth Avenue.

Lesser figures would be left crying into their sequinned handkerchiefs, but Franks is beaming brighter than one of her signature prints as she prepares to show her latest collection in Monday night’s opening runway at the Melbourne Fashion Festival.

“I love the Brene Brown saying that courage is not without fear, but the willingness just to show up, no matter how you feel inside,” Franks, 49, says. “It changes you and makes you that little bit stronger and braver each time.”

Strength can be seen throughout the latest Camilla collection that moves beyond her signature kaftans, to elaborate lace trousers in saturated colours, fringed blazers and denim. The Camilla aesthetic has shifted beyond the poolside glamour of The White Lotus, which the former drama student appeared in alongside her clothing.

“Twenty-one years ago, the brand was born in Bondi, but we now perform on a global stage, and I think silk crêpe or georgette pieces in New York, Paris or Milan in the middle of winter doesn’t translate,” she says.

“We’ve just opened up our store on Madison Avenue in New York, and we’re seeing the results of our hard work with denim, knitwear and lacework because that customer is quite different to the Sydney customer. She’s more similar to the Melbourne customer.

“Sydney’s more free-flowing, maybe a bit more romantic because there’s a beach culture to it. In Melbourne, they definitely resonate with the darker print colours.”

Franks wears her creativity on her sleeve, legs and back for the world to see, but hidden beneath the sarongs is sizeable ambition. It takes drive to reach $138 million in sales for the 2025 financial year, in a tough climate for luxury fashion. Camilla skirts can cost up to $3500, those fringed blazers are $1700 and lace lounge pants are $1500.

The New York store was followed by a boutique in Sydney’s redeveloped Chatswood Chase and will soon be joined by stores at The Atlantis in Dubai and a new space at Chadstone.

“Before I was just expressing my unbridled creativity, but as the business has grown, when you’re responsible for nearly 400 team members and 33 stores, you’ve got to get the science right behind it,” Franks says.

Moving forward the scientific formula will be hooked on colour, and not just kaftans.

“When I went through breast cancer, I wore black. It’s because you’re trying to protect your energy. You wear colour when you’re happy to let your energy go.”

Today, Franks is wearing bright green. Watch out.

The Melbourne Fashion Festival runway program runs from Monday, February 23, until Saturday, February 28.

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