Port guide: Kagoshima, Japan

Japan’s southernmost big city is relaxed and easy-going, but has one almighty sight that might make you leap in alarm. Prepare for a smoking hot encounter.

Who goes there

This small, relaxed and (compared to Tokyo or Osaka) rather old-fashioned city isn’t a world-class port of call, but is a very pleasant one that you’re sure to enjoy. It’s well visited on cruise itineraries that usually concentrate on Japan but may depart from overseas ports such as Hong Kong or Shanghai. Among ships that call in are those of Celebrity, Cunard, Norwegian, Ponant, Princess, Seabourn and Royal Caribbean.

Sail on in

The sail-in is lovely. Kagoshima is in Japan’s far south, and often enjoys balmy blue skies. The sweeping bay is protected by two peninsulas, allowing a long scenic arrival that culminates in the sight of Sakurajima volcano, whose summit often spouts smoke and ash. The ensemble often sees Kagoshima Bay compared to the Bay of Naples.

Berth rites

Cruise ships dock at a Marine Port Kagoshima whose quays – which also offer a scenic park and promenade – are built out into the harbour some eight kilometres south of the city. It has only minimal amenities. Free shuttles run into the city centre, as does a nearby tram line. Rather charmingly, a local band might play on the quay as your ship departs.

Going ashore

The joy of Kagoshima isn’t so much its sights as its laidback local feel and relative lack of foreign tourists. Tenmonkan shopping street is pleasantly old-fashioned, great informal eateries are found at every turn, and you can pause by the ruined castle. Sakurajima, however, steals the show, especially when it burps a plume of smoke accompanied by an almighty boom to alarm the uninitiated. You can take a ferry across the bay for an up-close look at this closely monitored volcano and hike along gritty trails, but you’d be pressed for time doing it yourself, so consider an organised excursion.

Don’t miss

Volcano apart, Kagoshima’s other well-known sight is Sengan-en Villa north of the city centre, once owned by the Shimadzu family who ruled over this region from 1185 until the demise of the samurai class in 1869. The gardens are a delight, with little artificial hills, stone lanterns and bonsaied pine trees, all marvellously backed by the bay and perfect cone of the volcano on its other side.

Get active

Want a decent workout without overdoing it? Shiroyama Park, reached after a 20-minute uphill walk from Kagoshima City Hall, has a variety of walking paths that eventually lead to Shiroyama Observatory, a deck that provides a magnificent view over the town and Sakurajima volcano. You could alternatively hike on Sakurajima itself – there are several hiking trails through lava fields – or rent a bicycle and ride its edges.

Best bites

Kagoshima’s richly fertile volcanic soil produces delicious oranges, watermelons, daikon radishes, sweet potatoes and more. Try the super-sweet and juicy mandarins and satsumas. The region is also known for Korobuta black pork, wagyu beef, seafood and eel. On a hot day cool down with a shirokuma or “polar bear”, a mound of shaved ice topped with fruit, red beans and condensed milk.

Further afield

Satsuma Peninsula is a popular shore-excursion destination for its hot springs, Lake Ikeda inside a volcanic caldera, and a row of preserved samurai-era houses at Chiran. At Ibusuki seaside resort, you can get buried up to your neck in hot black sand in a twist on hot-spring bathing. Other excursions head around Kinko Bay, stopping at places such as a Shinto shrine and a vinegar-maker before taking in the lava fields of Sakurajima.