The story behind the Masters’ famous pimento cheese sandwich

If you’re lucky enough to attend the Masters in person at some point in your life, there’s a short check-list of absolute must-dos when on the grounds of Augusta National: Take in the awe-inspiring elevation changes, experience the majesty of Amen Corner, and … eat a pimento cheese sandwich.

Of course, there’s plenty of other things to do and see and taste at the Masters, but in the pantheon of event-related food-and-beverage pairings, the pimento cheese sandwich and Augusta National may be tops. They’re as synonymous as the mint julep to the Kentucky Derby, or strawberries and cream to Wimbledon.

But how did the association between the Southern staple and the year’s first major championship begin? Author Rebecca Lang — a ninth-generation Southerner and Georgia native — tells the story in her new book, Pimento Cheese: The Southern Spread. Lang grew up on pimento cheese, and shared fond memories of sampling the sandwich at Augusta National.

“One of my first dates with my husband — we’ve been married 25 years — was to Augusta,” Lang said on a recent call. “And I remember, going the first time, it was so funny because I’m not a golfer, but I appreciate golf and I appreciate being outside. I think that’s the best part of it. But I remember how many sandwiches I ate that day. I mean, it was kind of crazy, and it just adds to the atmosphere so much.”

Pimento cheese first gained popularity in the U.S. in the early 1900s as a newly-available combination of cream cheese and canned pimento peppers imported from Spain. As the spread gained in popularity over the decades, Georgia became the largest grower and canner of pimentos in the country, sourcing more than 90 percent of the pimentos in the U.S., though that number today is a fraction of what it once was.

In the aftermath of WWII, the pimento spread took on a new texture and consistency from when it was first introduced, as families began making their own pimento cheese at home, replacing the cream cheese with hoop cheese — a mild and low-fat cow’s milk cheese — or cheddar, and mayonnaise. Thus, pimento cheese as we know it today was born.

When Lang decided to write a book about pimento cheese, she said she was inundated with stories about the spread from friends and neighbors.

“The whole time I was writing the book, which took a year and a half or so, everybody in Athens — it’s not a huge town — everybody here knew I was writing a book on pimento cheese,” Lang said. “I heard from a zillion people wanting to tell me their pimento cheese story, which is great, but most of people’s pimento cheese story is how their grandmother made pimento cheese when they’re growing up, and they love pimento cheese.”

One day, though, a local woman named Virginia Herndon Stutsman approached Lang while the two were volunteering at a middle-school soccer game. Stutsman had an amazing story: Her grandparents, Ola and Hodges Herndon, were the first to supply pimento cheese sandwiches for the Masters.

“I’ve known Virginia for years,” Lang said. “She lives in my neighborhood. I see her all the time and she’s so modest, you would never know. So, she tells me this entire story and I said, well, come over and let’s talk about this and let me start taking notes and get this on paper.”

In addition to the story, Stutsman shared a box of memorabilia with Lang, including a letter of gratitude from Bobby Jones and Clifford Roberts, and a solid brass ashtray featuring Augusta National’s 13th hole, with her grandfather’s name engraved. The ashtray was a gift to the 57 players who competed in 1948 — and to Herndon.

“It was amazing to see it all,” Lang said. “We spread it all over the dining room table. The sad thing is, she doesn’t have the recipe for the egg salad or the pimento cheese. If her grandmother was like my grandmother, she never used a recipe. It changed a little bit each time.”

Lang learned that in 1947, the Herndons were approached by Masters and Augusta National cofounder Clifford Roberts to make sandwiches for tournament patrons for 25 cents apiece. The Herndons, who owned a small restaurant and managed food service at the VA hospital in Augusta, prepared egg salad, ham, and pimento cheese sandwiches to send to the tournament. Ola and Hodges’ son, Tom (Virginia’s father), and his University of Georgia Phi Delta Theta fraternity brothers, helped deliver the sandwiches to the club via Berckmans Road as each batch was completed.

The demands of making all those sandwiches eventually outgrew the Herndon kitchen. Local caterer Nick Rangos took over the tournament’s pimento cheese production until 1998, when WifeSaver restaurant franchise owner Ted Godfrey was appointed. The reign of local pimento-cheese makers ended when the Masters brought all concessions in-house in 2013. The bargain price, however, has remained: $1.50.

Among the most interesting things about pimento cheese is that, as Lang alluded, the recipe isn’t set in stone. The ingredients stay the same, sure, but family methods and/or measurements are often kept close to the vest. Between each pimento cheese transition at the Masters, the previous recipes were not shared.

Luckily for us, Lang has no such qualms about publicizing the details of her favorite pimento cheese concoctions. Her new book includes more than 65 recipes: 35 for making pimento cheese, and another 30 that include pimento cheese as an ingredient. You can indulge in some of Lang’s favorite pimento cheese recipes below — or click the link to purchase her book for yourself.

Pimento Cheese: The Southern Spread

In Rebecca Lang’s new book, the storied food writer gives readers a taste of the famed spread’s history and versatility.

Rebecca Lang’s favorite pimento cheese recipes

Pimento Cheese: Augusta National style

Makes 3 1/4 cups

2 (8-ounce) blocks sharp cheddar cheese
3/4 cup mayonnaise
6 tablespoons undrained diced pimentos
2 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/4 teaspoon salt

Grate the cheddar using the large holes of a box grater. Combine the cheddar, mayonnaise, pimentos, cream cheese, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed for 1 minute.

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Pineapple Pimento Cheese

Makes 2 1/2 cups

1 (8-ounce) block extra-sharp cheddar cheese
1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple in pineapple juice, undrained
1/3 cup roasted red bell pepper strips, drained and roughly chopped
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus extra for garnish

Dash of cayenne pepper

Grate the cheddar using the large holes of a box grater. Place the cheddar, pineapple, bell pepper, cream cheese, mayonnaise, salt, crushed red pepper, and cayenne pepper in a medium mixing bowl. Stir to combine. Garnish with crushed red pepper.

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Pickled-Okra-Packed Pimento Cheese

Makes 2 1/2 cups

1 (8-ounce) block medium cheddar cheese
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup diced pimentos, drained
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 small shallot, diced
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
12 pods pickled okra, drained and thinly sliced (3/4 cup)

Grate the cheddar using the large holes of a box grater. Place the cheddar, mayonnaise, pimentos, Worcestershire, shallot, cayenne pepper, and salt in a medium mixing bowl. Stir to combine. Fold in pickled okra until well distributed. Chill for 2 hours before serving.

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.