One of the world’s biggest cities is a surprising hiking heaven

Of all the things I expected to find in Seoul, fabulous hiking wasn’t one of them. Which is surprising given how successful Korea has been in exporting so many aspects of its culture, from kimchi and K-pop to skin care and K-dramas.

Dig beneath the city’s high-tech facade and you’ll discover a wide variety of trails, from gentle city-centre ambles to challenging mountain ascents. There are also excellent facilities, in the form of three dedicated tourist hiking centres with knowledgeable staff, changing rooms, lockers and a rental service for boots, backpacks and clothing.

Start your exertions gently with a stroll along Seoullo 7017, a one-kilometre elevated walkway near Seoul Station. Opened in 2017 on a former highway overpass, this inviting urban trail is dotted with sculptures, play areas, cafes and more than 20,000 shrubs and plants. Accessible 24/7, it’s especially beguiling at night, when the illuminated thoroughfare offers sweeping views of Seoul’s glittering skyline.

Another popular urban trail is the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, which stretches for 6.3 kilometres from Yeonnam-dong to Munbae-dong. This narrow greenway follows the train tracks of the Japanese-built Gyeongui Line (so it’s mostly flat) and is lined with cafes, bars, bookshops and boutiques. The trendy section near Hongik University can get busy at weekends but continue south-east and you’ll pass through tranquil pockets of verdant loveliness enroute to the moving War Memorial of Korea.

If you only have time for one city-centre stroll, make it Cheonggyecheon Stream, an impressive urban restoration that has transformed a neglected waterway into a delightful sunken nature corridor. Starting at Cheonggye Plaza, the 11-kilometre stream features a four-metre waterfall, colourful nighttime projections and several striking murals, including a 192-metre-long tiled mosaic of King Jeongjo’s royal procession. Look closely and you can spot a surprising variety of wildlife, from kingfishers and egrets to more than 30 species of fish.

Ready to take your efforts up a notch? You’re in luck. Not only is Seoul surrounded by a ring of four mountains (Bugaksan, Inwangsan, Namsan and Naksan), but in the 14th century King Taejo thoughtfully built a defensive wall linking them all. Today, the restored stone wall is the basis for the Seoul City Wall Trail, an 18.6-kilometre path that encircles the inner city. The undulating route can be reached by public transport at numerous points, so you can tackle as little or as much as you want. One of the most popular sections is from the Seoul City Wall Museum to the summit of Naksan Hill, the gentlest of the four peaks, which offers mesmerising city skyline views, particularly around sunset.

Now you’re well and truly warmed up, it’s time for the big one: Bukhansan Mountain. Located north of the city in Bukhansan National Park, Seoul’s highest peak can be accessed from a variety of trails that all converge at Baegunbongammun Fortress gate. From here, it’s a testing scramble up a steep granite slope to the 836-metre-high summit (there are railings to help) where your efforts are rewarded with a captivating 360-degree panorama of the city.

If you’ve got time, we recommend starting at the Bukhansanseong Fortress entrance (take the subway to Gupabal Station then the 704 bus) and choosing the longer summit route via Bukhansan Shelter (amusingly signposted the “easy course”). It’s quieter and has less thigh-destroying stairs. Enjoy lunch on the rocky plateau near the summit then exit the park via the eastern entrance near Bukhansan Ui station where the descent is shorter and more scenic.

If you’re up for a real challenge, there’s always Seoul Trail 2.0, a 157-kilometre route that circumnavigates the city. Split into 21 themed sections, each trailhead can be reached by public transport and there’s even a Seoul Trail stamp book with 28 stamps to collect along the way. Now that’s a K-hike.

THE DETAILS

FLY

Korean Air and Jetstar fly direct from Sydney to Seoul and indirectly from Melbourne. See koreanair.com; jetstar.com

TOUR

Starting and ending in Seoul, Explore Worldwide’s 12-day Discover South Korea trip includes upscale accommodation, transfers and several guided walks, including a stroll along the Cheonggyecheon Stream. Prices from $7290 a person, twin share. See exploreworldwide.com.au