Ottolenghi but make it Japan? Not exactly, but Mangosteen has the same laid-back canteen stylings, anchored by a menu of salads spun from ingredients sourced from the farmers’ market: locally grown tomato, avocado and basil tossed with wood-smoked olive oil and shallot dressing, say, or daikon, cucumber and wakame marinated in garlic-chilli oil.
But this is just one string in owner Yuki Yanaga’s bow, who opened Mangosteen in 2021, after having launched the original in Tokyo 21 years earlier. She also runs Vitamin-Q, which hosts local and Japanese DJs in Byron for sold-out dance parties. Kyohei Harada, Mangosteen’s chef, is a multi-hyphenate too, coaching jiu-jitsu in his spare time, but it’s his cooking that has endeared him to locals.
Along with the salads, expect a full repertoire of sushi rolls made with a light touch (try the seared koji salmon) and tempura, plus beer from the original Mangosteen brewery in Hokuto.
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