In a sea of enormous skyscrapers, this historic eight-storey hotel still stands out

The place: The Fullerton Hotel Singapore

Check-in

In a city of gleaming skyscrapers of glass and concrete, the eight-storey Fullerton still manages to stand out. Located at the mouth of the Singapore River, just before it flows into Marina Bay, the hotel’s backdrop is the high-rise towers of central Singapore. To the east, the gigantic Marina Bay Sands looms alongside the lotus-shaped ArtScience Museum. And yet, the Fullerton still draws the eye thanks to its imposing, neoclassical design. Red-jacketed doormen greet arrivals and usher them into the vast atrium lobby.

The look

The building has gone through many incarnations sine it was first established in 1928 as the Singapore Post Office – it has also been the stock exchange, the Chamber of Commerce and the exclusive Singapore Club. Originally completed at a cost of $S4.75 million (more than $A100 million in today’s money) it became the Fullerton in 2005 after conversion into a 400-room hotel. Despite its varied former purposes, you could be forgiven for thinking it was always intended to be a grand hotel. Huge Doric columns climb skywards in the lobby to the glass ceiling. The only other buildings in the city to share similar architecture are the former City Hall and Supreme Court (now the National Gallery – see below). There’s a 25-metre terrace pool, executive lounge, rooftop garden, gym and spa and multiple dining options. There is so much history to explore here that my room contains a 160-page coffee table book about it, plus there’s a small museum about the building’s history off the lobby.

The room

As the hotel is a converted building, the website warns: “guestrooms and suites within the same category are uniquely configured”. In my case, I’m on the sixth floor in a Quay Room (named for the view of Boat Quay up the river). It’s spacious, rectangular with high ceilings, a small couch at the foot of the king-sized bed, a circular coffee table-cum-work desk and several historic photographs adorning the walls. A highlight is the balcony, which overlooks the river. One touch I appreciate is that the old balcony doors have been backed up by a second set of newer, double-glazed ones, cutting off the noise from the lively riverside (particularly noticeable on my first night when some kind of live performance is happening in the park opposite in the early evening). The marble bathroom features a large bathtub and a Japanese-style electronic toilet with all the features you’d expect.

Food + drink

There are two main restaurants: Town, off the lobby, features both a la carte and buffet dining, with a mix of Asian and Western dishes. There’s a particular focus on local cuisine, with the likes of Hainanese chicken rice and Singaporean laksa on the menu. Jade on the second floor is traditional Chinese, Cantonese specifically, with dumplings and dishes like bird’s nest soup or egg noodles with crab. The buffet breakfast at Town is excellent and, being Singapore, it features a wide range of breakfast cuisines, both Western and Asian. I count nine Indian dishes alone. There’s also a traditional English afternoon tea served in the lobby courtyard, as well as a cake boutique for a dessert in the courtyard or to take away.

Out + about

While the modern attractions of Marina Bay, with its light shows and striking architecture, are just across the water, it’s worth heading in a different direction to another historic site. The enormous National Gallery of Singapore is spread across two grand buildings – the former Supreme Court and former City Hall. Home to more than 8000 works, ranging from ancient to modern, it’s one of the largest art spaces in Asia. Entry is $S20 for adults. See nationalgallery.sg

The verdict

Raffles might get all the attention as the original grand hotel in the city, but several historic buildings across Singapore have been converted into stylish hotels over the years. The Fullerton deserves to be mentioned in the same breath as its nearby rival – a gorgeous, grand and luxurious stay in a great location.

Our score out of five

★★★★½

The details

Rooms at the Fullerton Hotel Singapore start from $S610 ($A667) a night for a courtyard room overlooking the atrium. See fullertonhotels.com

Highlight

Simply, it’s the building itself and its history. It feels like taking a step back in time to Singapore’s early days, while still enjoying all the comforts and conveniences of a five-star luxury hotel.

Lowlight

A vintage alarm clock sits by the bed and, while it’s a nice touch aesthetically, its ticking is annoying and I relocate it under a towel in the bathroom. Also, somehow, the alarm on it goes off one morning at 5.30am.

The writer stayed as a guest of the Fullerton Singapore.