Lost in Time: A uniquely historical stay at the labyrinthine Chedi Al Bait Sharjah

Emirates Man

There are certain types of photographs that feature on the cover of tourist guidebooks or luxury travel coffee table books. You know the kind of thing: a solitary tree standing in dappled shade; a rustic old chair set against a vibrant turquoise wall of peeling plaster; or perhaps a vase sitting on a shelf surrounded by interesting shadows. Evoking a sense of stillness and silence, these photos beckon the reader to open the book and gently enter a distant world. Well, these kinds of images can be found everywhere at Chedi Al Bait Sharjah. A travel photographer’s dream, this wonderfully tranquil hotel, which is just 35 minutes north of downtown Dubai, is filled with truly photogenic scenes. Numerous alleys lead to courtyards and staircases that make a guest feel they are trapped (pleasantly so) in a mind-bending Escherian picture. Thankfully, the hotel has resisted the urge to fill its nooks and crannies with unnecessary clutter, instead choosing to let the spaces breathe, creating a tableaux that transport guests back in time. Relying on ancient architectural knowhow, the Chedi has rough walls made of coral and stone that repel summer heat while creating cooling, breezy tunnels. Turn a corner into yet another shady footpath and you’ll be met with a snapshot of charming Emirati heritage that feels as if it’s been untouched for decades. Indeed, the building possesses genuine history that has been protected with the help of UNESCO.

Constructed around 100 years ago, Chedi Al Bait Sharjah is in fact seven houses that have been restored and tastefully converted into 65 hotel rooms and suites. Al Bait translates to “the home’” in Arabic and the Chedi is a former residence that once belonged to Ibrahim Al Midfa, an influential figurehead in Sharjah’s cultural and intellectual history. The hotel’s peaceful library echoes those elements, making for a lovely way to spend some time, flicking through books on the story of the UAE, playing a board game, or browsing local artefacts. A majlis originally designed for Al Midfa and his fellow thinkers to congregate and discuss the topics of the day is now intended as a quiet space for today’s remote working guests – how times have changed. Look up and admire the hotel’s wind tower, underneath which sits The Cafe and its delicious platter of afternoon tea. Follow the discreet direction arrows on the walls and head to the pool, another shady haven with dreamy sunbeds that shuts guests off from the outside world entirely. The spa, similarly, is a secluded spot that offers relaxing treatments such as Thai reflexology – not that you’ll need much help to relax at the Chedi. I had the pleasure of checking into a Heritage Grand Room, a space that creates a sense of authentic Emirati culture through muted colours, dark wood, majlisstyle seating, rugs, wall tapestries, cushions and brass finishings.

Dinner was enjoyed at Nomani, a Japanese and Korean fusion restaurant in a beautiful sunken courtyard that is home to the aforementioned wind tower. Served in a heavy clay pot, the mushroom donabe with rice, four types of mushroom, chives and seaweed butter was stunning. In recent years, Sharjah has cemented its reputation as an important heritage hub in the UAE with the help of a major PR push to inform and educate the public of its impressive cultural portfolio. Chedi Al Bait Sharjah lies in the Heart of Sharjah, a district that contains Sharjah Heritage Museum, Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilisation, Sharjah Fort, Sharjah Art Museum, and the pretty waterfront Corniche. For hotel guests, an easy gateway to Sharjah’s arts and culture scene is Souq Al Arsah, a traditional bazaar almost 200 years old that is attached to the Chedi. Thought to be the oldest traditional marketplace in the UAE, Souq Al Arsah is packed with around 40 boutiques selling all sorts of treasures such as tapestries, coins, perfumes, carpets, coffee pots, jewellery, and clothing, not tacky souvenirs. Look out for the few stores selling old landline telephones and typewriters – explaining these now ancient relics to young children should raise a smile among their parents. A stroll around Souq Al Arsah is typical of what Chedi Al Bait Sharjah gives guests: a beguiling journey back to an era almost forgotten but tantalisingly still within reach.

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Images: Supplied