Maria Grazia Chiuri brings disco glamour to Fendi SS27 at Milan Fashion Week

Fashion

For the second ready-to-wear collection for Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri placed lingerie at the centre of the collection. Presented on September 23 at Milan Fashion Week, the SS27 collection explored the link between the body and clothing through a wardrobe that blurred the lines between lingerie and outerwear.

Bras, boxer shorts, slips and camisoles appeared as key garment pieces rather than hidden layers; lace-trimmed bras were styled under open shirts. On the other hand, sheer dresses revealed the lingerie under the layer. Long, flowy dresses moved lightly across the body, creating an effortless silhouette that contrasted with more structured details throughout the collection.

The collection also leaned into a 1970s era; sheer dresses came with trailing hems, while embroidered waistcoats, vintage-inspired fur stoles and plunging necklines added the drama. Black colour was significantly seen throughout the collection, appearing across evening dresses and lingerie inspired looks, while softer shades brought variation to the otherwise sensual palette.

Chiuri also introduced a playful sense between masculine and feminine dressing. Men’s shirts were worn open to the navel, while traditionally intimate pieces were brought into everyday dressing—the result was a wardrobe built around freedom of styling, with familiar Fendi signatures appearing through embellished Baguette bags, statement shoes and tactile accessories.

At the heart of the collection was Raffaella Carrà, whose uninhibited approach to performance and fashion provided a clear point of reference. Her influence could be seen in the collection’s confident sensuality and its embrace of the body, while the mirrored setting and disco-inflected atmosphere reinforced the era’s spirit.

Rather than treating lingerie as something concealed beneath clothing, Fendi SS27 made it the starting point for a contemporary wardrobe. Through sheer layers, exposed lace and fluid silhouettes, Chiuri offered a distinctly Italian take on sensual dressing, bringing together fashion, freedom and the enduring glamour of Carrà.