Fashion
Nicolas Ghesquière closed Paris Fashion Week by transforming the Louvre’s Cour Carrée into a retro-futuristic city street, complete with an asphalt catwalk and windowless, wedge-shaped flying vehicles suspended overhead. Titled ‘Ergonomie’, Louis Vuitton’s SS27 collection imagined moving through a busy metropolis in clothes that felt light, functional and almost instinctively easy to wear. Ghesquière described the idea as a pursuit of simplicity and “a quest for purity”.
The palette remained deliberately soft, built around milky neutrals, muted accents and occasional deeper shades for contrast. Prints were small and blurred, while embroidery appeared in delicate, restrained touches.
The show opened with a sense of weightlessness—sheer wrap dresses came finished with piped edges, draped slips were pinned asymmetrically, and long knit cardigans were fastened with jewelled buttons. Double-face coats were cut from scarf-weight checked cashmere, with Ghesquière noting that most weighed less than a T-shirt.
Even the collection’s armour-like elements were softened, longline coats and tailored jackets referenced spacesuits and Victorian dressing robes, while crystal collars, beaded waist fringing and shield-like headpieces added a futuristic edge. Other looks: ruffled jackets similar to a parka were layered over a glossy sequinned set, while perforated leather trousers brought a harder contrast. Louis Vuitton monogram bomber jacket paired with a pixelated paillette skirt gave one of the house’s most recognisable codes a distinctly digital finish.
Movement was at the core of the collection. Sheer organza dresses and skirt sets came alive with prismatic geometric prints that appeared to shift as the models walked. Ruffled blouses were paired with trailing scarves, while a brush-printed dress was finished with beaded plume motifs. The clothes bounced, shuddered and floated with each step, creating a sense of fluidity that felt deliberately removed from the heavier, more structured layering of recent seasons.
Accessories followed the same balance of practicality and polish—lace-up derbies, pointed ankle boots, soft loafers with gold hardware and compact top-handle bags grounded the looks, while crystal visors added a distinctly futuristic finish.
For a designer known for his fascination with armour, Ghesquière admitted that this quieter territory was unusual for him—yet the collection still demanded extensive research into fabric, construction and engineering. The result was one of his lightest and most approachable collections to date, offering an optimistic vision of travel and a future that feels less like a costume and more like something you could actually wear on a Tuesday morning commute.
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