Aria

For decades, the debate over who had the best view of the Opera House raged. Quay, over the water? Aria, straight up the line of the sails? Suddenly, with Quay’s closure, there’s only one answer.

Now is a fine time to reappraise Aria, to appreciate not only its longevity but how it continues to feel relevant. Maybe it’s the spring in the step of the service team, or how chefs Tom Gorringe and Matt Moran continue to expand the definition of “modern Australian” cooking across prix fixe and tasting menus, plus snacks, including a fried quail leg finished with egg yolk and caviar that’s all but mandatory.

Chawanmushi is bright with herbs and native lime. Wollemi duck breast has sheen for days. Murray cod is shatteringly crisp. And at every turn the garnishes are as distinct and detailed as the wine service. Been a while? It’s time to go back.

Must-order: It’s a throwback, sure, but the souffle is an Aria classic for a reason.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Last visited: August 2026

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