Slowly, then suddenly, Margaret has transformed into one of the country’s finest steakhouses. This shouldn’t be surprising – this is Neil Perry, founder of Rockpool Bar & Grill, after all – but still, the scope is striking.
Beasts are sourced from producers such as David Blackmore or CopperTree Farms, broken down and dry-aged in house, before hitting the menu, perhaps to be served with red-curry butter, tarragon bread salsa, or in the case of a half-kilo grass-fed bone-in sirloin, beautifully unadorned.
Perry has the eye of a classicist and the palate of a pioneer, a fact in evidence across the 30-or-so non-steak dishes, too, from wood-grilled John dory plated with peanut, chilli and tomato salsa to South Coast bluefin tuna tossed with gochujang and set to scoop up with gem lettuce.
A love of producers, a full dining room, a stacked wine list, waiters that just get it. This is old-school stuff, but somehow it never gets old.
Must-order: The Memories of a Mirabelle Tart is hard to beat for dessert, but then so is the flourless chocolate cake.
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