Arriving at this airport is a joyous affair. Departing is dull

The airport

Nadi International Airport, Fiji

The flight

Fiji Airways FJ915, Nadi to Sydney

The arrival

My method of getting to the airport today is quite unorthodox: I’m taking a private water taxi from Cloud 9, a floating bar moored off Malolo Island, and disembarking at Naisoso Landing, a small marina located directly behind the airport. From there, it’s a four-minute transfer to the airport. I’d absolutely do it again: taking a water taxi allows me to both skip the traffic from Port Denarau and maximise my time in the islands.

The look

With lush tropical landscaping and flowers everywhere, the modern L-shaped building and its high, hangar-style ceilings in the check-in area make a great first impression for departing visitors. However, once you’re through security, passengers are squeezed into an inadequately sized waiting area with a cluster of plastic chairs, a handful of retail shops and a series of gates squeezed up against each other.

Check-in

There’s almost no one in the airport when I arrive at 4pm, and I’m met at the curb by a representative from Fiji Airways Premier Service (available for $FJ170 [$108]), who whisks me to a separate, express check-in area.

Security

There’s no line-up at customs and security when I arrive, and I walk straight through. However, a unique aspect of Nadi Airport, that always seems to catch departing travellers by surprise, is the hand check of your on-board baggage once you’ve had your ticket scanned at the gate. After heading out on the covered, open-air balcony, a series of trestle tables and a dozen security officers inspect and examine every single bag by hand: a process that can occasionally lead to long delays and bottlenecks at the already space-poor gate when boarding.

Food + drink

Once past security, it’s slim pickings inside: you won’t starve, but you won’t be satisfied, either. The crowd favourite is still Burger King, while there’s a bar serving snacks and drinks, with a pastry cabinet full of prepackaged sandwiches, salads and cakes you can easily take onboard. The only other option? Crisps and chocolate from WHSmith.

Retail therapy

The airport has two main duty-free and souvenir shops – Prouds and Tappoo – alongside a Rip Curl store, WHSmith, a Nike store and a jewellery shop. Alongside the standard duty-free offerings, there is a nice selection of home-grown Fijian foods, local liquors, spices and a big selection of tropical-themed shirts. I pick up a few tubs of Pure Fiji coconut sugar rub to take home as gifts, two bottles of Bati Coconut Rum Liquor, and some homewares from Rise Beyond the Reef, a Fijian not-for-profit women’s collective.

Passing time

Arriving at Nadi Airport is a joyful affair, with arrivals greeted at security with music and guitar. However, on departure there’s really nothing to do once you’re on the other side of security. With all departing afternoon and early evening flights clustered together, it’s crowded and at times overwhelming in the tiny space. Thankfully, most of the kids milling at the gate are so tuckered out from the resort pool that they aren’t crawling up the walls, but besides watching the sun set over Wailoaloa Bay, it’s a dull affair.

The verdict

Travelling through Nadi Airport isn’t an unpleasant experience, but the departure area is simply too small for the number of passengers moving through it. Every gate feels packed, and traffic around the airport is getting busier as the nearby Wailoaloa Resort area grows. With the Pacific back in focus as a travel destination, Nadi Airport has to meet the challenge of growing passenger demand.

Our rating out of five

★★★

The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways