Americans turned unwanted cuts of meat into a phenomenon

The dish: Texas barbecue

Plate up

We are not going to suggest that the Americans invented or even own the concept of the barbecue. That’s a topic for a much longer column. Instead, we’re going to talk about Texas barbecue, which has its own distinct style, with recognisable elements and a passionate following. In fact, there are four recognised styles of Texas barbecue – East, Central, West and South – but here we will focus on what’s typically the best known, Central.

The key ingredient for Central Texas barbecue is brisket, which is rubbed with salt and pepper (and sometimes a few other spices) and cooked low and slow over indirect heat for up to an entire day. That juicy brisket is sliced into thick wedges and served on a cafeteria-style tray with sausages and maybe pork ribs, plus a selection of white bread, dill pickles, jalapenos, corn bread, pinto beans, mac and cheese, and slaw. It’s a feast, and it’s amazing.

First serve

Texas has the likes of Germany and the Czech Republic to thank for the genesis of its barbecue culture. Migrants from those countries are credited with introducing the practice of smoking meats to preserve them in the mid-19th century, and from there Texas barbecue was influenced by African American traditions and Mexican ingredients and ideas.

The purpose of smoking meats, originally, was to preserve unwanted cuts such as brisket and pork ribs for later use. Eventually, these slow-cooked offcuts exceeded the popularity of the fresh, prime cuts, and markets and restaurants started specialising in this unique style. In Central Texas, the cities of Lockhart, Luling and Taylor are the spiritual homes of pit-style barbecue.

Order there

In the town of Elgin, about 40 kilometres east of Austin, Southside Market & Barbeque (southsidemarket.com), has been around since 1886, and is the oldest barbecue restaurant in Texas.

Order here

In Sydney, Central Texas pitmaster Kareem El-Ghayesh and local chef Lennox Hastie are putting on a series of masterclasses and meals at Sydney Brewery Rozelle from May 1 to 4 (firedoor.com.au). In Melbourne, check out Fancy Hank’s (pictured above) in the city (fancyhanks.com). And in Brisbane, try Frankie’s Smokehouse in Woolloongabba (frankiessmokehouse.com.au).

One more thing

One of the differences in Texan barbecue styles is the wood. In Central Texas it’s pecan or post oak, in the East it’s hickory, in the West it’s mesquite, and in the Mexican-influenced South, agave leaves are added.