As Melburnians, we know our coffee, but have you tried this robust coconut one?

Roemah means “home” – it’s an older spelling of the Indonesian word rumah – but you don’t need to know Bahasa Indonesia to be enveloped by domestic warmth in this cosy new eatery. The mission is to provide a nostalgic sense of welcome for Indonesian Australians, and introduce Indonesian food to those less familiar with the cuisines of our northern neighbours.

People gather at teak tables over coffees and fried plantain. The windows are curtained, allowing filtered light to dance over traditional games, weavings, masks and artefacts, some referencing the streets of Jakarta and Surabaya, the birthplaces of owners Ray Winarto and Cindy Lomo, respectively.

Under a gazebo in the yard, friends chat over nasi goreng and stuffed tofu. There’s a stay-a-while mood: another coffee, another sweet, another story. It’s low-budget but high impact, a misty-eyed marvel whether it’s tapping into your own memories or not.

You know coffee, but maybe not like this. Indonesian beans tend to be dark-roasted, turned into robust, filtered brews, usually stirred with condensed milk. Among the dozen different coffees here, I most love kopi santan Blora. Simmered with coconut milk, this central Javan specialty is given a Melbourne spin, served in a glass as though at an espresso bar, the rim crusted with toasted coconut, as fancy as a salt-rimmed margarita.

That balance of tradition and creativity is seen throughout the menu, a culinary
tightrope walked with poise that’s quite startling in a six-month-old venue from first-time operators. But Winarto and Lomo bring varied experience to the enterprise: they are bright-eyed food geeks, sure, but also focused and clever. He’s an IT guy who’s always been obsessed with food (while working in a Jakarta office, he had a fried-food side hustle), and schooled up in fast-food shops to learn systems and processes. She’s a qualified pastry chef, turning her attention to elevated versions of traditional Indonesian desserts, many of them little-known regional specialties.

Lontar Papua is a custard tart passed down from Ray’s dad’s Papuan family. Made with condensed milk and a snifter of rum, it’s a jiggly, creamy, utterly smooth delight.

Es pisang ijo sees plantain wrapped in pandan-green rice pancake served alongside coconut custard, shaved ice and banana syrup. It’s fun and exuberant, the dessert version of jumping into a ball pit at a play centre.

Rendang is an Indonesian staple, but Roemah’s version stands out for using beef cheek that’s cooked sous vide, then braised in a dark, intense spice paste that resolves into sweetness. So far, so great, but it gets even better. The dish is topped with a lacy cracker made from kremes, a crunchy topping of chicken stock and seasoned flour. It’s a genius amalgam of cheffy trickery and street-food comfort.

This is a casual spot. Ordering via QR code undercuts the snuggly feel, but an extra staff member to wait tables would mean higher prices. The Roemah crew has opted to keep meals cheap – mostly under $20 – and it’s easy to find someone to chat through any questions. I’m so charmed by this place: it’s humble and heartfelt, a wonderful addition to Melbourne.

This review was originally published in Good Weekend magazine.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.