Do you really need a face oil in your skincare routine?

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On one of those dreaded college mornings, when I was running late for a lecture and everything seemed to be conspiring against me, I spotted a friend walking toward our classroom, equally frazzled and equally sleep-deprived. And yet, her skin was gleaming away to glory.

I had to ask what sorcery was at play. “A few drops of baby oil mixed into my usual moisturiser,” she said casually. As someone who was deeply oil-averse at the time, this revelation obviously did not sit well with me. I remember telling her that I could hear a dermatologist crying somewhere.

But curiosity won. The next day, I mixed three drops of almond oil into my face cream, along with a silent prayer, and braced for a breakout. It never came. Instead, my skin felt intensely hydrated, especially during Delhi’s punishing winter.

What face oil actually does

“Since most face oils are occlusive, when used on slightly damp skin or layered over a serum or moisturiser, they help to seal in hydration,” explains Dr Jaishree Sharad, cosmetic dermatologist. “Typically, 2-4 drops are enough. Excessive amounts can clog pores,” she cautions.

This is where many of us misunderstand oils. They don’t hydrate on their own. They don’t add water to the skin. What they do is reduce transepidermal water loss, essentially acting like a sealant over existing hydration.

Who benefits most from face oils?

“People with normal skin can benefit from marula, jojoba and squalene for glow. Individuals with dry or sensitive skin typically tolerate rosehip, argan, oat and squalene oil well,” says Dr Sharad. Face oils tend to work best in:

Dry or mature skin: Oils like rosehip, argan and squalene help support a compromised barrier and reduce tightness.

Normal skin: Lightweight oils such as marula, jojoba and squalene can enhance radiance without overwhelming the skin.

Cold or dry climates: In winter, when humidity drops and skin loses moisture more quickly, oils can provide that extra buffer against dehydration.

Who should be cautious?

Summer humidity complicates things. The idea of layering oil onto already sweaty skin can feel like a recipe for clogged pores and sometimes, it is. “For acne-prone skin, non-comedogenic and lightweight options like rosehip, jojoba and hemp seed oil are generally considered safe,” says Dr Sharad. But caution is key.

Dr Shailya Gupta adds, “Oils like frankincense or multiple essential oil blends are often more trend-driven. They may smell nice, but they don’t necessarily offer dermatological benefits and can sometimes irritate sensitive skin.” If your skin is oily, acne-prone or prone to congestion, moderation and formulation matter far more than trend.

Common misconception: oils vs moisturisers

Over time, I realised face oils come bearing both promises and perils. They play a supportive role, sealing in moisture, reducing water loss and supporting the skin barrier. But they are not a substitute for moisturiser. “Modern moisturisers already combine humectants, emollients and occlusive ingredients,” clarifies Dr Gupta. “Face oils can be a nice add-on for dry skin, but they’re definitely not an essential step in your skincare routine.” In other words: oils are optional.

So do you really need one?

For most people, a well-formulated moisturiser is enough. Face oil is not mandatory. But in the right context — dry skin, cold weather, barrier repair — a few carefully chosen drops can make a visible difference.

As for me, I no longer hear imaginary dermatologists wailing when I reach for oil. But I also don’t treat it as a necessary step if I’m too tired or my skin is in a good place. And as always, no single routine works the same for everyone. In skincare, less is always more.

Disclaimer : This story is auto aggregated by a computer programme and has not been created or edited by DOWNTHENEWS. Publisher: vogue.in