Marlowe

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Head-turning dining space in an old apartment building.

Matt Shea

1 / 3Chef and co-owner Ollie Hansford’s menu taps into nostalgia without laying it on too thick.Markus Ravik
Marlowe in South Brisbane.
2 / 3Marlowe in South Brisbane.Markus Ravik
Inside the restaurant.
3 / 3Inside the restaurant.Markus Ravik

Contemporary$$

Fanda Group (Southside, Rick Shores, Central, Norte) has taken the old Merivale apartment building in South Brisbane and transformed it into this head-turning 110-seat restaurant. There are nine distinct dining and bar spaces, a greenery-lined terrace, and four enclosed sunrooms.

For food, chef Ollie Hansford taps into the restaurant’s built-in sense of place and nostalgia, sourcing some unique local producers to serve classic Australian and European dishes with a twist. Much of the seafood coming out of the kitchen is sourced from a co-operative of line fishermen working the east coast and producers such as Cherax Park Aquaculture, north of Gympie.

On the main menu, there’s stuffed 20-week chicken breast from Joyce’s Gold Heritage Chicken with mushrooms and a sherry sauce, and a rotating butcher’s cut that utilises citrus-fed wagyu from Elbow Valley Beef, west of Brisbane.Group beverage director Peter Marchant’s entirely Australian wine list (beyond its champagne) plays a similar gambit, calling upon both small and larger old-school producers, but in the case of the latter often reaching for their more distinctive older vintages.

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Matt SheaMatt Shea is Food and Culture Editor at Brisbane Times. He is a former editor and editor-at-large at Broadsheet Brisbane, and has written for Escape, Qantas Magazine, the Guardian, Jetstar Magazine and SilverKris, among many others.

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