A National Treasure
Pakoras are ubiquitous throughout India, transforming from the star of a tea-time ritual to a reliable side dish at meals. In many Bengali households, tele-bhajas are an essential part of the multi-course daily meal.The versatility of pakoras is remarkable; nearly any vegetable, green, fruit, fish, or even meat can be transformed into this crispy delight. I recall a humorous story about my neighbor who insisted on having her meal accompanied by a bowl of tele-bhajas. One day, her mother decided to teach her a lesson by frying some thoroughly washed grass in spiced besan (chickpea flour) batter. Unbeknownst to her daughter, she enjoyed the unconventional lunch!
An Emotional Connection
Pakoras are more than just food; they evoke emotions wrapped in layers of spiced besan or other flours, fried to golden perfection. From beguni (eggplant pakora) served during Durga Puja bhogs to Mumbai’s beloved batata vada (potato pakoras) and Chennai’s crispy vengayam pakoda (onion fritters), each region boasts its unique variety of pakoras.While Western cuisines have their own fritters and beignets, the chickpea flour batter and concepts of pakki rasoi (cooked food) and kachchi rasoi (raw food) are unique to Indian cuisine.
Culinary Classification
Indian cuisine is broadly divided into these two categories based on food preparation methods. Kachchi rasoi includes boiled or raw foods that spoil quickly, while pakki rasoi encompasses fried foods that can be stored longer, especially during travel. The high heat used in frying reduces moisture content significantly.Over time, round fried snacks known as pakwata—derived from “pakka” (cooked) and “watta” (laddu)—became colloquially known as pakoras.
Global Influence: The Birth of Tempura
The journey of pakoras extends beyond India; they have influenced global cuisines as well. One notable example is Japan’s tempura. Food historians suggest that during the 16th century, Spanish and Portuguese ships would stop in India en route to Japan, often hiring Indian cooks who introduced them to various vegetable preparations, including pakoras.When these ships reached Japan, many Indian cooks remained and helped shape Japanese cuisine by creating tempura—a dish that had no prior existence in Japan before this influence. Interestingly, tempura remains an anomaly in Japanese cooking where deep-frying is not traditionally practiced; most fried dishes are shallow-fried instead. Unlike pakoras, tempura uses wheat flour for a lighter, crispier texture.
Enduring Legacy
Over the years, pakoras have evolved significantly. Originally a vegetarian dish, they now embrace a plethora of Indian flavors and textures while occasionally experiencing fusion twists. Yet through all these transformations, pakoras have retained their brilliance and continue to offer comfort in every bite.In essence, pakoras are not just a snack; they embody a rich tapestry of tradition and innovation that connects people across cultures and generations.
