Penelope

If you’ve walked down James Street and wondered about the colour and shapes that swell and shift beyond Penelope’s fluted glass then, congratulations, that’s exactly how Coats Group intended it. This clever bistro sticks out on the strip precisely because, on first impression, it looks like it’s trying not to.

Z Architects was charged with capturing the feel of a 1960s or ’70s European supper club, with timber wall panelling, marble counters, large pendant lights and heavy drapery.

For food, there’s a relatively straightforward menu that’s split into house-made charcuterie, snacks, small plates and mains. Think bistro classics such as vodka pasta, steak frites and beef tartare, but often with an imaginative touch-up. Similarly, the drinks are kept tight, with twisted classic cocktails – including a martini menu – and a 100-bottle wine list that favours European drops.

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