The overlooked European country you can hike across in just three days

Two flagpoles, one hiking pole. I’m standing in the middle of a small, narrow bitumen road, marking the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Green meadows and mountains surround me under an overcast silver-grey sky. Besides flags fluttering on either side of me in the fresh breeze, the scene is quiet. As the gravitas of my GPS location begins to sink in, I brace myself and drop a pin on my phone’s maps app. I’m about to walk the length of an entire country.

Until recently, visiting Liechtenstein was never on my radar. I admit, I didn’t know much about Europe’s fourth-smallest country, other than it being a day-trip destination and coach tour pitstop for people to boast about visiting “another country”, albeit by just walking a few steps across the border. It was only after I realised my 15-day Swiss train pass allowed travel to the alpine monarchy that it sparked curiosity to do something few do: holiday in Liechtenstein.

Royalty, castles – restored and in ruins – enchanting forests, gastronomic delights, modern architecture, and medieval villages are among Liechtenstein’s lures. Going down the research rabbit hole, I discovered there’s more to see than quick leg stretches to key sites; I could trek across the whole country within days.

A walk through Liechtenstein

Before strapping on the hiking boots, here’s a brief overview: Liechtenstein is the world’s sixth-smallest country, covering 160 square kilometres (to put that in perspective, Greater Sydney is more than 12,000 square kilometres, Greater Melbourne almost 10,000). Home to about 40,000 residents, it’s one of two double landlocked countries in the world (the other is Uzbekistan), sandwiched in the Alps between Switzerland and Austria. Liechtenstein doesn’t have an airport; its closest is Zurich. Bus travel rules: there are no trains. That said, Liechtenstein’s limited accessibility makes it one of the world’s least-visited countries, with just 120,587 arrivals in 2024, according to the Principality of Liechtenstein.

But recently a new attraction has enticed people to stay longer: the country’s crowning outdoor attraction, the Liechtenstein Trail. Spanning 75 kilometres, the trail launched in 2019 to mark the 300th anniversary of the principality. The border-to-border trail meanders through all 11 municipalities, passing all five castles, tiny towns, vineyards (including one owned by royalty), a beguiling number of cemeteries, forests, and rolling apple-green hills spotted with cows accessorised with pleasant brass bells. Snow-capped mountains – in Switzerland and Austria – are rarely out of sight.

The perfect beginners’ trail

While walking the entire length of the country (25 kilometres) can be completed in a day or two, I’m taking on the Liechtenstein Trail in five days, though some choose to do it in three. I consider the 75-kilometre-long route a baby step into self-guided multi-day hiking adventures and want to enjoy it at a comfortable pace. I’ve never done a solo hike before and feel at ease knowing civilisation is close by, phone reception hardly wanes, and alpine water fountains are plentiful and safe to drink.

The 12-stage trail features 2000 vertical metres of uphill and downhill walking and is marked with red and blue signs, some of which are easier to spot than others. To further assist hikers there’s the free LIstory app, which contains stage-by-stage maps and information on 148 points of interest.

Regarding logistics, Liechtenstein Tourism offers three to seven-night trail packages to relieve the stress of organising and, most importantly, back pain. Most comforts, conveniences and frills are pre-arranged to conquer Liechtenstein carefree on foot. I needn’t worry about carrying a portable house on my back; each night, I’ll sleep in simple, modern accommodation with my luggage transferred each day to the next stop.

As for energy sources, breakfast and lunch are supplied. There’s no shame in stocking up on extra food at the breakfast buffet – hikers are encouraged to make their own lunchbox to take on the route. Additionally, each package includes a pass for attractions and free public transport (if you want to give your legs a break).

At the borderline

I’m standing at the start of the trail with local guide Claudia Agnolazza, who has driven me to the country’s southern border. It is marked by flagpoles and old grey boundary stones, one of which is tombstone-like and engraved with Liechtenstein’s coat of arms on one side, and on the other with the crest of the former free state, Three Leagues.

After a brief history lesson, Agnolazza says she has completed individual stages of the trail several times and is averse to its “challenging areas” which she marks on a paper map.

“If you get tired or if the weather isn’t great for the steep sections, you could catch the bus,” she says.

“The only time I’ll catch transport is the day I’ll depart,” I say with a laugh, determined to complete the walk.

Agnolazza is joining me for stage one of the trail, which extends 10 kilometres between the villages of Balzers and Triesen, and takes just over two hours to complete. It’s not long until I’m testing the strength of my glutes, walking up the winding road to one of the country’s iconic landmarks.

The 12th-century Gutenberg Castle, perched on a 70-metre-high hill, is the stuff of fairytales. It provides sweeping vistas of Balzers; the town’s towering church turret is dwarfed by mountains resembling green meringues on the Swiss side, clouds engulfing its peaks.

There are unexpected charms, such as seeing multi-storey office buildings next to farmland with bell-ringing cows. One minute I’m walking across rolling hills, sparsely flecked with naked autumn trees. Next, I’m wandering around timber chalets. Changing scenes are swift out here – so too is completing each stage.

I arrive at Hotel Schatzmann and Agnolazza departs. Hard work reaps rewards with dinner at neighbouring restaurant, Vivid (highly rated by the French dining guide Gault & Millau). My creamy risotto with fish sourced from Lake Zurich is an exquisite introduction to regional flavours and produce. A scrumptious energy booster.

The home stretch

There’s no shortage of intriguing sights for the remainder of the trail. An alpine self-serve convenience store next to an alpaca farm. Child-sized wood sculptures depicting local folklore dot pathways and fringe forests. The ruins of Schalun Castle – a perfect setting for a picnic lunch.

Extra time is warranted in Liechtenstein’s capital, Vaduz. Its landmark, the hilltop 12th-century Vaduz Castle, where the royal family currently lives, overlooks the pocket-sized city: a colourful tapestry of ancient and modern architecture. There are several museums worth visiting, including black-cubed Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, which exhibits modern and contemporary art.

North of Vaduz, and fitting into the storybook scenery, is Torkel. Located on the princely Herrawingert vineyard, the Michelin-starred restaurant is housed in a medieval barn originally used for wine production. Its past life is feted with its three-century-old timber Torkelbaum that engulfs the venue.

After a morning detour to see the Old Rhine Bridge, a wooden-covered structure connecting to Switzerland, I return to visit Torkel’s adjacent cellar door, Court Winery of the Prince of Liechtenstein.

“I hope it gives you power,” the assistant jokes as she pours wine for tastings.

As I take a sip, I reflect on how much I’ve experienced in such a short amount of time. It’s been enlightening, mentally, physically and culturally, and I’m determined to see it through to Austria.

A few days later, my legs are sore yet my smile endures. I catch a bus back to Vaduz to visit the tourism office, my last stop before returning to Switzerland. I’m gold-paper-crowned and presented with a certificate officially honouring me as the 454th person to have completed the Liechtenstein Trail. I think bragging rights are justified.

THE DETAILS

Transport
The 15-Day Swiss Travel Pass costs CHF459 ($880) (based on second class). See sbb.ch/en

Stay
Liechtenstein Tourism’s five-day/four-night trail package is from CHF720 ($1380). This includes accommodation, breakfast, packed lunches, luggage transfer service, and the All Inclusive Adventure Pass. Packages are also available for different durations. See en.tourismus.li

The writer was a guest of Switzerland Tourism and Liechtenstein Tourism.