Ian Griffiths brings “utility lux” to Max Mara’s SS27 collection

Fashion

On the third day of the Milan Fashion Week, Max Mara SS27 presented its collection with Ian Griffiths as creative director, the line being based on a concept he referred to as “utility lux”. In keeping with the brand’s long-standing image of offering quiet, wearable luxury, the show was devoid of any grand spectacle and featured a straightforward line-up of well-cut, thoughtfully designed garments meant to keep up with the women who were wearing them.

The programme was once again a smooth delivery, without relying on gimmicks, excessive statements, or obvious fashion trends, the emphasis being placed on the skill with which garments were made in substantial linens and shiny gabardine, a fabric which at times resembled leather. The practical construction of safari jackets, cargo vests and trench coats—displayed their functional features more as a style choice than as something necessary. Griffiths pointed out that the wearer might never open a bellows pocket or fasten a strap; the important thing was the overall shape, not the hardware. Sensuality was shown off through slim knit dresses which remained sexy without being too tight, too sheer, or too revealing, while cutout backs and halter necklines provided a bit of spice. The utility theme reached its most distinct expression with a flight suit and a pair of black organza cargo pants.

In addition to the runway outfits, the collection pursued a narrative of nonconformist glamour, paying homage to figures such as Amelia Earhart by incorporating chore jackets and loose-fitting trousers. The range was completed with well-cut coats, sturdy block-heeled boots, crisp white shirts, and suede handbags, thus creating a wardrobe designed for movement rather than for show. Deliberately, there was no surprise element presented—the brand appeared to want the audience to see themselves in the clothes rather than to create a moment that would generate headlines.

For Griffiths the idea comes down to a simple design philosophy—that clothing should be seen as “equipment for living”—and in order to ensure that each item can be worn and then easily forgotten, it is tested on the women in his own office. Although this seems to be a modest goal in theory, it is precisely this approach that has kept Max Mara’s runway collection relevant from season to season: by presenting bold women who are dressed in a stylish way for going out, not just for the front row.