Meryll Rogge brings color and quirk to Marni’s SS27 in Milan show

Fashion

Meryll Rogge showcases her second collection for Marni was shown in Milan for the SS27 collection, and the collection made it clear that an archive should not be preserved exactly as it is rather, it should be edited. While her Fall 2026 debut had embraced a mild nostalgia for the design codes from Consuelo Castiglioni’s era, this SS27 collection went even further by displaying more raw and restless energy.

The style appeared to be younger with an intentional, in-progress edge that felt fresh rather than careless—with the clothes having exposed metal loops and embroidery that had not been completed, as if the pieces had been halted during the editing process rather than during construction. This approach comes across as a sign of confidence, not of carelessness. Rogge seems less concerned with displaying craftsmanship for its own sake and more interested in challenging the very idea of what a ‘finished’ Marni garment should look like.

On the runway the silhouettes remained slim and tubular, and a series of shift dresses made from leather or heavier materials such as duchesse satin provided the collection with its main structural support. A great deal of the narrative aspect was conveyed through texture: melange sweaters had rows of micro-sequins which caught the attention on the striped chest panels, a windbreaker was made from a technical fabric printed with a motif that looked almost like wallpaper, and a neat checkered coat subtly referenced a retro atmosphere without falling into pastiche.

For Rogge, rather than showing off luxury, the designers used luxurious elements in a restrained way, and the only clear references to opulence included three coats, each just as long as a fingertip, made from curly goat fur lined with Mongolian lamb, together with a few leather blazers and breeches; the rest of the collection was based on texture and style. The show ended with the model Mariacarla Boscono, who made her first appearance on the Milan runway since the Vogue World event on Tuesday, in a black leather shift dress which captured the atmosphere of the collection: simple, a bit tough, and confident so as not to require any decoration in order to make its message clear.

The conclusion was straightforward: the Rogge is testing how far she can extend the house’s DNA than being primarily concerned with going back to the past and making, one piece at a time, the decision about what should be carried forward.

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