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At Paris Fashion Week, Jonathan Anderson for Dior SS27 celebrates the beauty of nature

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Fashion

Dior’s SS27 collection at Paris Fashion Week: the theme started with an invitation containing two walnuts, and thinking of it now, it has a beautiful concept behind it—Jonathan Anderson was inspired by a Chinese tradition known as wénwán, traditionally collected and hand polished over time, these walnuts are valued for their intricate textures and natural patterns and the patina they develop through handling. Associated with patience, prosperity, longevity and craftsmanship and Jonathan Anderson’s interest in nature, heritage and the beauty of everyday objects—the Dior’s SS27 collection reflects his vision.

The show was presented at Le Bassin Octogonal in the Jardin des Tuileries, at a place where a group of camphor trees, surrounded by mist, had been put in place specially. It is said that the camphor tree would be replanted in the Tuileries so as to continue to thrive for many years to come, and this pleasant idea gave the entire afternoon a feeling of care and continuity.

The concept of wénwán was presented in the form of texture; the sheer pinstripes and houndstooth were superimposed on each other, the blazers were worn looser and slightly untied, and raw hems together with fringing gave the entire look the atmosphere of having been used and cared for. The sequence began with a pinstriped double-breasted jacket over a cream mini skirt with a frayed edge, and the blue and grey tweed coat with a fringed hem showed that Anderson is able to turn a basic item in his wardrobe into a treasured possession.

The petals were hand-cut and displayed as sculptural decorations on the shoulder and all over the upper torso, going with a powder blue feathered skirt which seemed almost too delicate to walk in. A pale grey organza suit sparkled with feathery pieces, and silver and mint coloured metallic trousers with a python texture gave just enough sheen to prevent the tailoring from becoming too serious. The pleated black chiffon dress was purely dramatic, while a pink dress with a tulle skirt and a blue printed midi created a softer, more romantic atmosphere, and since nature is never symmetrical, Anderson was reminded of just how much knowledge and preciousness it contains.

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