When it comes to US train travel, this station is the jewel in the crown

The Station

Union Station, Chicago, USA

The journey

Chicago to Denver, Colorado, aboard Amtrak’s California Zephyr train; a journey of just under 20 hours.

The departure

You don’t need to be told that Chicago’s Union Station is the jewel in the crown of Amtrak’s network of long-distance trains. Opened in 1925 in the beaux-arts style, it’s basically a temple devoted to rail travel. Its Great Hall in particular dazzles with soaring columns, decorative arched ceilings, grand staircases, long timber benches, and expansive skylights. It’s an environment that portrays train travel as important and sophisticated, and is a 1000 times more uplifting than any airport. And you can reach a lot of the USA from here – in addition to suburban Metra trains, the station hosts 16 Amtrak services which head to destinations as diverse as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle and New Orleans.

Safety + security

Union Station is generally safe, though crimes including assault and theft have occurred. With that in mind, keep an eye on your belongings and surroundings. If you’re catching one of its trains, Amtrak offers a luggage storage service for $US20 ($29) per item.

Food + drink

The station has a food court which contains the usual suspects among American fast-food chains, from pretzels to pizza. A more atmospheric choice for breakfast or lunch is Lou Mitchell’s, a historic diner a short walk away at 565 W Jackson Boulevard. Near the start of the famed Route 66, it’s been serving hearty meals to travellers for more than a century, handing out “donut holes” (small circular doughnuts) as a complimentary treat. Alternatively, an easy walk across the Chicago River to 223 W Jackson Boulevard takes you to a branch of Giordano’s, which specialises in Chicago’s famous deep-dish pizza and is open late.

Retail therapy

There’s not much on offer within the station, beyond a bookshop/newsstand and an outlet selling gourmet nuts and chocolates. However, Chicago’s central business district, The Loop, presents shopping opportunities nearby. Willis Tower contains Catalog, a five-floor food and shopping zone which references the building’s original occupant, Sears, famous for its mail order catalogues. Otherwise, take a wander through the West Loop area, which has a number of shops selling fashion and gifts.

Passing time

The obvious attraction within a short walk is Willis Tower, formerly Sears Tower and, for a time, the tallest building in the world. Its Skydeck is well worth a visit for lofty views over the city and Lake Michigan. Another entertaining attraction within the building is Color Factory Chicago, whose social-media-friendly exhibitions depict elements of the city in bright colours. If you have more time to spare, you could walk to nearby Quincy station on Chicago’s elevated railway, riding to Clark/Lake station for a stroll along the Chicago Riverwalk, spotting historic architecture including the graceful Wrigley Building.

Boarding

If you’re travelling as a sleeper passenger you can access Amtrak’s Metropolitan Lounge at Union Station, and enjoy complimentary beverages, snacks and Wi-Fi access. While waiting here for my Denver-bound train, I get talking to an Amish family seated nearby, killing time as their onward train has been delayed. I’ve often seen Amish people taking trains across the USA on previous visits, so it’s fun to make contact. In due course a staff member leads me and other sleeper passengers to the right platform for our train.

The verdict

Chicago’s Union Station is a grand delight, still serving its century-old function as a major hub for long-distance railway services across the US.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled courtesy of Brand USA, Choose Chicago, and Visit Denver.