Media personalities sit cross-legged at a corner table, comfortable in the grey-panelled dining room, an oasis from the madding crowd of South Yarra’s Domain Road. Owner-chef Michael Bacash has captained this ship, with a staff schooled in classic service and a menu exactingly spotlighting seafood, for 26 years.
One of his signatures is a dish consisting of the finest fish he can bag, filleted, grilled and adorned only with crunchy fries. Dishes get more elaborate, of course, like a starter of springy crumpets topped with mayo-bound crab and salmon roe. Or mains such as Lebanese-style snapper, draped in tahini and silverbeet that’s braised in sumac.
Chefs bring the same honed skill they display with pin-boning tweezers to carnivorous dishes, such as duck with spiced carrot puree and cherries, and desserts: perhaps a textbook chocolate mousse spiked with salted-caramel sauce and chocolate crumbs.
Must-order: Fish of the day with French fries.
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