Big cruise ships sail to Fiji, but can’t see the true highlights

Coming up for air, I hear yelling from the shore. For the past half hour, I have been enraptured with the underwater world that fringes Fiji’s Sacred Islands, navigating pastel corals and schools of tropical fish dressed in their neon best.

Stingrays slumber on the sand below and shy parrot fish shelter under rocky outcrops while the ever-vigilant soldier fish swarm my mask.

The yells startle me. Was it an oncoming vessel? A whitetip reef shark? Not even close. It’s the local school bus, or rather “school boat”, trying to beat the tide. There are just a few inches of water separating the sandbar that stretches between two islands where our ship, MV Yasawa Princess II, has dropped anchor.

Racing to beat the tide and determined not to have to take the long way around the islands, more than a dozen yelling kids had tumbled over the side, attempting to drag their boat across the narrow channel.

It’s a losing battle but reinforcements, in the shape of the passengers and crew, join them in a push-pull tug of war with the tide until the runabout yields. Everyone gives a cheer: the kids clamber back in yelling vinaka (thank you), waving as they speed past.

At a glance, cruising and Fiji sound like a perfect fit for travellers: the island paradise continues to boast a record number of Australian visitors while our love affair with cruising continues.

However, while Fiji is a fast flight from the east coast of Australia, it’s a long cruise from the mainland, and few big cruise lines make it that far. And if they do, they’re simply too big to navigate the best of its pristine, shallow coves and stunning reefs.

And it’s in this sweet spot that Fiji’s Blue Lagoon Cruises sits. Apart from private vessels and the growing superyacht market, the small-ship cruise operation has had the Fijian cruise market to itself for the better part of 75 years.

I join the newly launched Yasawa Princess II for a four-day cruise midway through its seven-day loop through the Yasawas and Mamanuca Islands. Departing Port Denarau near Nadi, the ship offers three-night, four-night and seven-night departures.

With just 22 cabins for 44 passengers, the 46-metre catamaran is designed with a shallow draft that can access sheltered reefs and bays, which makes it perfect for exploring the region.

My cabin is on the main deck on the starboard side and at 14.5 square metres – roomier than I expect. Refreshingly, the interiors offer a genuine sense of place: a large print by prominent Fijian-based artist Penelope Casey hangs on the wall, there’s a branded tote and traditional sulu (skirt), locally made chocolate, cassava chips and a Pure Fiji amenities set in the complimentary mini-bar for guests.

I chuckle when I peek inside. Forget your standard hotel sewing kit, cotton bud and shoe-shine: the amenities kit has sunscreen, after-sun cream and natural insect repellent – and I use every item.

The cabins are on the two lower decks, while the main public area – bar, lounge and dining – is on the upper deck. Up top is a sundeck, a moonlight cinema and a “dining under the stars” space.

A Blue Lagoon cruise moves at a much slower pace than what regular cruisers might be used to, but make no mistake: certain parts of the itinerary pack a heavy shot of adrenaline for those keen to push their own limits.

The furthest north we travel is to Sawa-i-Lau Caves, near the village of Tamasua. The limestone sea caves are a highlight of the trip: the first cavern is like a cathedral.

Swimming in the grotto would be more than enough to leave you in awe. But the island has secrets, and with the help of our guides, the plan is to swim through the limestone karsts to an underwater cavern.

I take a huge breath and plunge, my arms groping towards the torchlight ahead. Nothing can compare to the sensation of surfacing into an underwater cave. The water glows turquoise from below, illuminating the honey-coloured walls around me. Reaching out, I find they’re smooth to the touch and resemble honeycomb.

There is no rush to leave, and the crew are happy to indulge those of us enchanted by this magical place, but ever the pranksters, they chant like Gregorian monks, the sound booming in the cave.

Later at dinner, I chat with Captain Joe, who took delivery of the Yasawa Princess II this year, sailing it from Brisbane to Nadi with his all-Fijian crew. The launch for the new ship couldn’t have been more timely. Originally, it was set to operate alongside Blue Lagoon’s other ship, the MV Fiji Princess.

However, in March, Fiji Princess ran aground on the reef just outside Monuriki Island. While everyone was evacuated safely, attempts to refloat the ship were unsuccessful, and it has since been retired.

Captain Joe tells me the Yasawa Princess is much lighter, features bigger staterooms and has a more favourable set-up for guests, with the dining up top maximising views. He’s been with the company for a number of years and tells us his favourite place to visit is tomorrow’s destination, Nanuya Island. “The beach is nice, the ship is tied to the coconut tree and everyone has fun.”

Except there’s some gentle joking the next morning when the ship is tied to a tiare tree rather than a coconut tree. While the tender drivers nudge the ship’s yellow kayaks ashore like they’re herding cattle, guests dive off the hydraulic platform on the aft deck, swimming to the palm-fringed beach. It’s the perfect day in paradise: hammocks, sun loungers, massages and a fully stocked beach bar.

Despite occupying a small kitchen, the food on board is of a high standard, ranging from more casual buffet lunch to alfresco barbecues on the top deck and a la carte captain’s dinners. But it’s the traditional lovo night that is the most satisfying.

We watch earlier that day as staff weave palm-frond wraps for pork and fish, wrap potatoes, yams and sweet potato in aluminium foil and build a fire with coconut fibres. They then stack the meal among hot rocks covered with sand, ash and palm fronds.

It’s left to smoke for hours and the smell, when it’s uncovered later, is unreal – an earthy, alluring scent that engulfs the beach, making us all salivate.

“Alright,” says cruise director Miri, grinning, “Fijian McDonald’s!”

After the feast, villagers perform one of the best meke shows I’ve encountered. The traditional dance performance is spectacular mainly because during the men’s dance, they switch on the charm and camp with slinking hips and big grins before pouncing right up in our group’s face in a fierce warrior stance, screaming “BULA!“, delivering a fright and leaving us in peals of laughter.

It’s touristy but fun and it’s easy to get swept up in the good-hearted nature of it. Later, off-duty crew, villagers and the last guests standing gather around the tanoa – a wooden bowl – for kava.

While it’s not quite to everyone’s taste, there’s no doubt the ceremonial, social drink is part of the social fabric of Fiji. Earlier in the evening, we watched as a kava ceremony was demonstrated for us, but this is different.

One of the crew gently strums a ukulele, humming and quietly singing. People from the village catch the crew up on news, introductions are made, and we begin to talk: sharing where we’re from, talking about our families, life in Australia, life in Fiji. I keep meaning to go to bed, but another bowl of kava is put in my hands, another good conversation starts up, and then another bowl of kava is shared.

And it’s here that small ship cruising in Fiji sets itself apart: offering not just a chance to see these pristine South Pacific islands at their most beautiful, but a genuine opportunity to connect with the people who call them home.

THE DETAILS

FLY
Fiji Airways flies from Australia’s east coast to Fiji, from $765 return. See fijiairways.com

CRUISE
Blue Lagoon Cruises offers three, four and seven-night cruises departing Port Denarau from $2309 a person, twin-share. This includes dining, activities and coach transfers. See bluelagooncruises.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Blue Lagoon Cruises and Tourism Fiji.