It’s also important to note that the sun isn’t the only thing that can stress out your skin during summertime retinol use. The warmer temperatures can worsen the side effects. “High temperatures can dilate blood vessels and contribute to inflammation,” says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. That, in turn, may worsen redness and cause additional dryness or irritation.
How to reduce summertime retinol sensitivity
Do you need to stop using retinol entirely during the sunny season? Not necessarily. It’s all about how you care for your skin and protect it from damaging UV rays. In fact, Dr. Reszko says, “summer is a vital time to continue retinol use, as [it helps] address and prevent signs of cumulative and actively occurring sun damage, but the key is pairing retinol with diligent photoprotection.”
Derms unanimously agree that sunscreen is absolutely essential for anyone using retinol (and everyone else, for that matter—every single day). “Retinol in the summertime should be closely paired with diligent and strict sun protection,” says Dr. Reszko, who recommends applying broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher—ideally SPF 50—and reapplying every two hours when you’re outside. In addition, protect your skin with a big sun hat when you’re enjoying the sunshine and warm weather.
Dr. Reszko also recommends applying retinol in the evenings only and pairing it with a moisturizer to support the skin barrier. On top of that she suggests “avoiding overuse of too many other potentially irritating actives,” including exfoliating acids like glycolic acid, to help minimize sun sensitivity.
Another point in favor of applying retinol at night is that vitamin A derivatives themselves are sun-sensitive, Dr. Spey explains. “The primary reason retinol is recommended for nighttime use is that UV exposure deactivates the active ingredient, making the product less effective,” she explains.
Do you plan to spend significant time on the beach this summer, perhaps on a getaway with friends or a yearly family vacation? If so, Dr. Reszko suggests reducing retinol frequency or pausing use entirely for a few days should your skin start feeling particularly sensitive.
People with melasma who are using any type of retinoid to help treat the skin condition should be “especially diligent” about sun avoidance, says Dr. Spey. Wearing wide-brimmed hats and using a physical sunscreen with iron oxides is a great place to start, but folks with melasma may also benefit from “a seasonal switch to bakuchiol during peak summer months to maintain regimen continuity without the photodegradation or sensitivity risks,” she says.
If your skin is feeling irritated or dry after sun exposure, Dr. Engelman recommends focusing on reducing inflammation and replenishing moisture. “Keep the skin cool, hydrated, and protected as it recovers, and drink plenty of water,” she advises. Hydrating products with soothing ingredients like aloe vera and ceramides are helpful to reduce redness, Dr. Engelman adds. Lightweight is best, as heavy oils and occlusives can trap heat and worsen inflammation. (First Aid Beauty’s Hydrating Dewy Gel Cream would be a great summertime pick.)
And never ever apply retinol to sunburned skin, says Dr. Engelman; it can cause pain, redness, and irritation. Wait until your skin has recovered, then resume your routine.
Retinol tips for newbies
Just starting your retinol journey this summer? Don’t stress about it! The key is to go “low and slow,” says Dr. Reszko. “Begin with a lower-strength formula two nonconsecutive nights per week, then gradually increase frequency as tolerated,” she says. All you need is a pea-sized amount for your whole face. Dr. Reszko recommends letting it absorb for about 10 minutes and finishing with moisturizer to help ease dryness and irritation.
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