Cumulus Inc. was one of the city’s first wine-bar-slash-restaurants, and an early pioneer of the familiar-but-fun dinner menu served in a stylish industrial space.
Head chef Hannah Holleran’s menu may not look particularly inventive or singular – then the food hits the table. There are dozens of tuna tartares in this city, but very few are this fresh, served in hefty cubes over goat’s curd and vibrant green peas spiked with mint. Tender agnolotti, filled with beetroot ricotta and garnished with walnuts and sage, makes for an excellent mid-course before a 1.3-kilogram lamb shoulder arrives, fall-apart tender and smothered in an almond and red pepper sauce.
Cumulus Inc. is not only the model from which some of Melbourne’s best restaurants took inspiration, it continues to shine brightly as a standard-bearer of great service, fantastic wine and approachable, exciting and delicious dining.
Good to know: Weekends at Cumulus feel frenetic. Try a 3pm lunch or Monday night dinner for a slightly more relaxed groove.
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