Darband

If you’ve only eaten kebabs beneath the fluorescent lights of a late-night takeaway shop, it’s time to expand your palate. At Darband, a family-owned restaurant in Auburn, they’re made Persian-style: marinated lamb koobideh, minced in house with a finely tuned fat-to-protein ratio and cooked over hot charcoal for a rich, smoky flavour. It’s plated simply, with grilled tomato and saffron basmati rice.

After operating out of a no-frills site for 20 years, the restaurant has moved into a larger space in Auburn with a contemporary fit-out, and the nostalgic touch of thrifted Iranian records, prints and even vintage 1960s’ Paykan (a licensed version of the Hillman Hunter manufactured in Iran).

The food, the hospitality, and the customers remain largely unchanged. There are still 25-seat tables requested for big family dinners and a kebab-forward menu (now with marinated chicken wings).

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.