Fashion
Diesel’s SS27 collection arrived at Milan Fashion Week with denim again taking centre stage. For Glenn Martens the show marked his last collection for the Italian house, but the clothes remained firmly focused on the design language he has spent six years building: experimental, youthful and rooted in the possibilities of denim.
The collection continued Martens’ instinct for taking a wardrobe staple and pushing it somewhere unexpected. Denim appeared with a manipulated quality, moving between distressed, oversized and reconstructed treatments rather than staying within the boundaries of traditional jeans. The fabric was treated as a sculptural medium, allowing familiar Diesel codes to take on new proportions and textures.
Silhouettes carried the sense of experimentation, relaxed oversized shapes brought a streetwear attitude, while layered denim looked to create depth through contrasting washes and surfaces. Pieces were styled together in a way that made denim feel like a single wardrobe category and more like an entire dressing language.
That approach has become one of Martens’ signatures at Diesel, and throughout his tenure he had often distressed, dyed and reworked denims, introducing unexpected constructions and proportions while maintaining the accessibility at the heart of the brand.
The styling also leaned into Diesel’s instinct for irreverence, as casual separates were given a fashion-forward edge through layering and exaggerated proportions, creating looks that felt more deliberately undone than overly polished. A tension was felt between the familiar and the unexpected that gave the collection its energy.
SS27 felt like a traditional farewell collection and more like a continuation of the Diesel vocabulary Martens established. Since arriving in 2020 he has expanded the house’s identity into a broader world of experimentation while helping reconnect the brand with a younger audience.
With his final Diesel runway complete, SS27 leaves behind a particularly distinctive chapter: one where denim was never simply denim but the starting point for something considerably more experimental.
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