Editor’s Review: Ferragamo straps in for an empowering SS27 show

Fashion

SS27 is shaping up to be a pretty steamy season with brands like Prada and Gucci showing a lot of skin in their offerings. We can now add Ferragamo to this list as designer Maximilian Davis made a very strong argument for form-fitting fashion and translucent fabrics in his line-up.

He was also in the sartorial slipstream with the instrumental use of belts as a major focal point of his designs as they anchored slim slip dresses at the bust, lined up in pairs on separates — hemming short jackets and topping off high-waisted skirts — or woven into the waistline of cutaway tank-top dresses.

If we extrapolate out from the belt concept, another striking silhouette came in the form of strong-shouldered suits and skirt suits finished with liquid silk tops that ended in an impressive loop of fabric that slid down the waist and circled low along one leg. It’s an idea that then effortlessly morphed into long flowing dresses in semi-sheer diaphanous layers of lightly draped fabric that ended in trains that followed in the wake of the models.

This exploration of transparency also went in a more spicy direction when the designer decided to cut colourful skirts, dresses, and trench coats in glossy rubber. But any naughty ideas were tempered by the precision of the cuts and the sophisticated colour choices. And a nod must be given to the brand’s iconic Hug bag, the success of which has inspired countless other labels. It showed up in a new take on the East-West silhouette, appearing in a textural crinkled double silk finish.

Davis said he was inspired by the women of the 1940s, who were entering the workforce and needed clothing that could go the distance. That reference felt fleeting at best while watching the show. But if the designer’s goal was to create a collection that will make women feel empowered, mission accomplished.

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