For Chloé SS27, Chemena Kamali revisits the house’s romantic codes

Fashion

At Paris Fashion Week, Chemena Kamali continued to explore the romantic side of the Chloé for the SS27 collection, and this time through delicate fabrics, lingerie-inspired dressing and pieces that felt made to be lived in. The collection had an ease to it, with the designer returning to familiar house codes without making them feel overly precious.

Broderie anglaise was one of the strongest threads running through the collection—appearing on cotton dresses, sheer layers and structured pieces—while the same intricate detailing found its way onto leather bags and knee-high boots. Lace, pearls, silk tassels and three-dimensional flowers added to the feeling of clothes that were carefully worked but never overly polished.

The femininity came through in the way the clothes were styled. Lingerie-inspired pieces were worn with more relaxed layers, while sweetheart, scoop and off-the-shoulder necklines brought attention to the décolletage. Loose, cape-like silhouettes gave the looks movement, keeping the more delicate pieces from feeling too dressed up.

Kamali also played with a more practical side of the Chloé woman. Fisherman references appeared in the form of yellow slickers and oversized floppy hats, while transparent capes brought a lighter, almost dreamlike quality to the outerwear. It was this mix of the functional and the romantic that gave the collection its personality.

There was a nod to the house’s history, too, with Kamali looking back to a Karl Lagerfeld-designed suit from 1972. Rather than simply recreating an archival look, she pulled its spirit into a collection that feels more relaxed and instinctive.

What stood out about SS27 was the way Kamali allowed Chloé’s femininity to breathe. Lace, embroidery and lingerie dressing can easily become overly sweet, but here they were grounded by practical outerwear, relaxed proportions and a wardrobe that feels easy to wear. It is a softer take on the house, but one that still feels distinctly Chloé.

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