Fashion
Glenn Martens is busy, if anything. Just a week after bidding adieu to Diesel in Milan, the designer touched down in Paris for his second ready-to-wear show for Maison Margiela SS27 with his head full of ideas.
The first clue was in the set, where a towering wall of dried flowers rose behind a herringbone parquet runway—the Maison Margiela SS27 collection is less about fading beauty and more about fresh thinking, with Martens taking Parisian atelier techniques as his starting point and naming the season “Hard and Soft”.
Colliding techniques led to contrasting silhouettes. The first look, a khaki-brown trench, draped heavily at the front, a bold floral brocade trench worn with a matching lace collar and boots, appeared later in the show. Denim and leather jackets appeared throughout, as well as full skirts and stiff panels reminiscent of corsets, which added structure to tops and dresses. The more dramatic looks, including a series of black bodysuits and draped, black satin and jersey sheath dresses, closed out the show.
The vibrant colours brought a sense of fun and joy to the collection, such as the combination of metallic orange daisies with a pink floral skirt and a green jacket. One-of-a-kind designs included an airbrushed swan, which was displayed on a gown; even a tuxedo jacket and a denim skirt looked at home in the mix, as well as black net crochet and lace-up sandals.
By the final look, Martens’ intention felt clear: to make the unexpected feel wearable. Sculptural coats, softly draped dresses and Belle Époque touches proved that hard and soft can share a wardrobe.
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