Big, better, best. Those words sum up the delicacies in Israel, which is a melting pot when it comes to the dining table, for the portions that are served to you would most certainly be a handful to complete. We begin with a shawarma at the Clock Tower Square in Old Jaffa that turns out to be a jumbo-sized one needing quite a while to finish. That’s a meal for two, is the thought that springs to mind before you begin to work on it… chipping away from the sides before the salad-tossed-chicken wrap holds tight and eats you up.
That’s just about the filling you need to trek up the Jaffa Hill past the Big Mosque and up to St Peter’s Church from where the skyscrapers of Tel Aviv shine against the turquoise waves of the magnificent Mediterranean Sea that breaks down to kiss the feet of frolicking beach goers. The old and new cities blend into a beautiful picture, indeed.
Down at the other end is the Abulafia Bakery, which has kept its traditional brick oven burning for almost a century-and-a-half — the first one was established in 1879 in Jaffa, informs Said (pronounced Sayeed) Abulafia, a sixth generation bakery businessman whose family has a 500-year history in Israel. “We are a Muslim Arab family, and our bakery has become a brand loved by Jews, Christians and Muslims alike. Many Indians working in Israel are also regular customers,” Said smiles.
They make pitas, sweets, savouries and an array of other breads which sell like hot cakes in the heart of Tel Aviv and at 13 other branches across Israel. “We prepare traditional Middle Eastern pastries, including sesame bagels, pita with za’atar, and stuffed sambusak with fillings such as cheese, feta and potatoes. These have become some of our most popular products,” Said explains.
The Abulafias stick to tradition. “The recipes remain the same as they were more than 140 years ago. What we have done is introduce some new products and fusion ideas — for example, incorporating truffle butter into certain items. But our traditional methods remain unchanged. Many products are still prepared by hand, from shaping the dough to adding olive oil and za’atar. Even as we innovate, we stay true to our roots,” he adds proudly.
Floating by the busy food street in Levinsky Market we get to Mom’s Bourekas, named such to honour the passing down of the tradition and recipe. Boureka is a flaky, baked snack filled with ingredients like cheese, mashed potatoes or spinach and is quite famous in Israel. It’s often washed down by the fragrant Falude — a rose syrup that comprises Israel’s most popular aniseed-based distilled spirit Arak, a dash of lime and rice noodles.
Then there is of course the creamy delicious dip Humus and Shakshuka, which is a staple cuisine featuring eggs poached in spiced up tomato gravy.
Moving on, the Shalom Tower, once the tallest building in the Middle East, stands tall and serene while the street below leads to a clutch of night spots for pub crawlers who party hard and late into the night. The Rothschild Boulevard in Tel Aviv is one of most vibrant tree-lined streets with a bustling culinary and nightlife. It’s plainly the place to party.
At the foot of the Shalom Tower is a Kiosk that sold candy canes called gazos, we learn. The longest street of Tel Aviv is named after its first Mayor, Meir Dizengoff. A stone’s throw away on Huberman Street is the Charles Bronfman Auditorium, the City’s new Concert Hall. That’s certainly music to the ears of aficionados.
A couple of days feasting on the different flavours brought to Israel by Jews from all over the world — Poland, Morocco, Iran, Iraq, Bulgaria, Greece, Romania, Turkey to name a few — who settled here to make it a multi-cultural mix, we are right at home in the Holy Land. Tandoori on Tel Aviv promenade is a go-to place for Indians and others alike. Owned by Reena Pushkarna, the restaurant sits right across the Mediterranean Sea and serves delectable dishes that land on your table in large portions. With most of the staff drawn from India, the chicken tikkas, butter chickens, seekh kababs and a host of curries are absolutely authentic at this splendid sea-view place. And yes, there’s plenty of variety for the vegetarians as well — the paneers, koftas and traditional thalis besides a slew of snacks like samosas, pakoras and vada pav that make you lick your lips and click your tongue before getting a mouthful.
In Israel you truly have too much on your plate.
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