It’s 172 years old, but this iconic train station is charming and efficient

The station

London Paddington, London

The journey

London Paddington to Kingham on the Great Western Railway, train 00820. The 109-kilometre trip is around 75 minutes.

The departure

I arrive to the station hauling nine weeks’ worth of Euro summer luggage, and follow signage to the lift to the main concourse. Opened in 1854, this snow-globe-like station features arched, glass-roofed ceilings and detailed ironwork throughout. As well as being the terminus for the Heathrow Express, it’s also the headquarters for the Great Western Railway, which connects the British capital to the likes of Bath, Cornwall and Wales. Wayfinding floor stickers direct passengers to popular routes, such as the Heathrow Express, as well as taxis.

Safety + security

Given I’m taking a regional train to the Cotswolds, there are no security points. London Paddington is the third-busiest station in Great Britain, with nearly 70 million passengers passing through here in 2025. I overhear two heavily armed police officers chatting with a friendly staff member about how busy it is for a Wednesday, but while there are people constantly coming and going, it doesn’t feel cramped or crowded. In saying that, I’m conscious not to wave my phone about after a surge in phone theft in London. There’s no police station, but the British Transport Police patrol the network.

Food + drink

It wouldn’t be London without a pub. Located on the concourse, The Beer House serves food and beer on tap, but looks suspiciously empty despite being 12.20pm. There’s a Hungry Jacks for those who want to grab a burger to-go, as well as sandwiches and baguettes from Upper Crust and Cornish pasties from The Pasty Shop. I also spy a sweets counter serving baklava and cannoli. I’m pressed for time, so grab chicken nuggets for the train ride; a walk of shame, because I’m on my way to a country wellness retreat.

Retail therapy

It’s mostly gift shops and British high street brands, such as Accessorize, Boots and Lush and bookstore chain WHS Smith. Or pick up books, toys and souvenirs at Paddington Bear Shop, dedicated to the fictional bear who was found sitting on his suitcase at this very station. The adjacent Paddington Square and high street Praed Street offer more options, including fashion brand Mango, skincare giant Kiehl’s and stationery shop Moleskin.

Passing time

Pose for a photo with the bronze statue of Paddington Bear near Platform 1. There’s a free waiting room tucked down one side of the station with seating, as well as a nearby ATM and currency exchange. A first-class lounge with complimentary refreshments is available for Great Western Railway passengers travelling premium. If you’ve got time to kill, store your luggage at left baggage for £10 ($19) for up to three hours.

Boarding

It’s all very simple and civil, with the train departing from Platform 9 and station staff assisting passengers through the gates. I scan my QR code and make my way to my carriage, where an electronic display system conveniently shows which seats are reserved or available. It’s worth noting that the journey back to London on a Saturday is chaotic, with people standing in the aisles and occupying other’s seats, so make sure you reserve a spot.

The verdict

This is one of London’s most seamless and efficient departure points. Staff are friendly and helpful, the vibe is relaxed and there’s plenty of food and drink options should you wish to get there early or want to picnic on the train.

Our rating out of five

★★★★★

The writer travelled as a guest of Daylesford Stays, daylesfordstays.com