Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez reimagine 180 years of heritage for Loewe SS27

Fashion

At Paris Fashion Week, Loewe presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, the third from creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. Staged at the Château de Vincennes, the show unfolded within a circular, two-level arena, bringing models closer to the audience and moving away from the traditional runway format. Coinciding with the house’s 180th anniversary, the collection explored what Hernandez described backstage as a meeting of “the old world and the new world”.

Volume was central to the collection, with exaggerated proportions balanced by thoughtful details. The opening look paired an oversized grey-and-cream check blazer with a navy zip-up knit and a gathered ivory skirt, cinched at the hips with a red cord—a mustard taffeta mini dress with dramatic ruffles and a blue drawcord waist—followed by a strapless lime-green dress in looped terry, which brought a more tactile dimension to the silhouettes. Loewe’s leather heritage was reworked through cropped chocolate-brown and black bombers belted over sheer skirts with beaded hems, alongside draped leather jackets styled with utilitarian cargo trousers. The suede blazer, a reference to the first garment made by the house in 1960, returned in caramel, paired with cobalt tights and charm-embellished sandals.

Colour and craftsmanship brought a sense of lightness to the collection; sheer striped dresses in sunshine yellow, coral and powder blue featured glass-bead fringes, while one model wore a striking marigold beaded wig. Floral cut-out dresses in white and bright yellow, styled with matching bow mules, introduced a softer romanticism. Elsewhere, black scarf-trimmed slip dresses added a playful touch, while ivory and chocolate polo dresses were elevated with glossy gold and flame-gradient collars, paired with mirrored sunglasses. A green tank dress finished with three-dimensional floral appliqué brought the collection to a close.

Accessories continued the playful approach, with croc-embossed bags in lime, coral and green, drawstring clutches, bow-embellished mules and bright pink flats adding colour to the looks. Balancing Loewe’s Spanish heritage with an understated, American sensibility, McCollough and Hernandez delivered a collection that felt expressive yet effortless, allowing the silhouettes, textures and unexpected details to take centre stage.

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Images: Supplied