Love sushi? Try this stylish Sandoitchi spin-off in Darlinghurst for next-level onigiri

Is onigiri the new sushi roll? A ubiquitous snack found in every convenience store across Japan, these triangle-shaped, nori-wrapped rice balls are riding a wave of popularity not seen in Sydney since the turn of the century, when sushi went from a relative curiosity to lunchtime staple.

You may have lunched on onigiri in cafes such as Parami, OTOGO, Mogu Mogu and TRICO, or snacked on them at izakayas including Nom, Nomidokoro Indigo and Tachinomi YP. But Itadakimasu – the newest venture from Sandoitchi owners Bhas Kraikangwan and Ying Boonrod – is the first venue to place them front and centre in a restaurant setting.

“Onigiri and sandwiches were always our favourite things to eat,” says Kraikangwan. “Onigiri is our symbol of simplicity and humbleness.” That may be, but here the onigiri are levelled up, made to order using rice cooked throughout the day, and served alongside a full drinks menu.

The pressed salted rice ball was one of Japan’s earliest portable hand-sized snacks, and is said to have historically fuelled samurai before battle. Here, during the lunch rush, the glass showcase of onigiri allows workers to grab a quick takeaway before heading back to the grind. The yuzu pork is the most popular, with up to 150 sold each week.

For a more relaxed meal, though, it’s worth dining in (bookings recommended) for the elevated teishoku set experience. Teishoku – a single tray meal with a main dish, rice, soup and pickles – has its origins in Buddhist Zen temples, but has evolved into a popular meal style for travellers.

Itadakimasu uses it as an opportunity to showcase different regions of Japan, realised through different onigiri flavours. That means celebrating spicy pork onigiri and Japanese A5 wagyu onigiri in the Kagoshima set, an area in the southern tip of Kyushu island famous for its pork, beef and natural hot springs. The tumble of mince in the spicy pork onigiri is modest but flavourful, although your eyes will undoubtedly be drawn to the beef onigiri, which is presented with a slice of buttery, melting wagyu draped over the top.

The Hokkaido set, on the other hand, is all about celebrating the sea: expect one onigiri topped with a hefty slab of sticky glazed eel and fluffy tamago, and another capped with sweet grilled Hokkaido scallop.

Also on the menu: the Tokyo set, featuring seasonal highlights including yuzu pork and sukiyaki wagyu; as well as the vegetarian Okinawa set, in which taco rice – a local comfort food born out of the US presence in Japan post-WW2 – is the main attraction.

Unlike sushi rice, which uses vinegar and sugar, onigiri rice is traditionally seasoned only with salt. Kraikangwan uses a combination of Japanese and Australian sea salts, cooking small batches of rice throughout the day to maximise freshness throughout service. The rice is akitamochi, a premium short-grain cultivar cherished for its balance of sweetness, softness and texture, with a slightly chewier bite than koshihikari.

Each teishoku set is supplemented with side dishes, served in small bowls and plates that make this feel more like a celebratory occasion than a fast-food meal. Here you can swoop and pick your way through golden-crumbed whiting with creamy egg salad, dressed greens with seaweed salad and crunchy pickles.

The pork and miso soup is substantial, swimming with fried tofu puffs and seaweed in a clear dashi base. Free soup refills are a welcome offer for the cold or ravenous. A wedge of fresh orange and a small plate of wobbly warabi mochi dusted in roasted soybean powder comprise dessert.

The narrow, compact dining room is a swathe of deep timbers, with rows of sake bottles perched above diners’ heads. The bulk of stools are around the bar, giving diners front-row seats to all the made-to-order onigiri action. It’s a quiet, seamless operation, with chefs working quickly to shape and top each onigiri.

All the deep-frying happens at Sandoitchi next door, and every now and then, a face appears at the cutout window connecting the two, an outstretched hand passing through deep-fried dishes.

Pick the karaage chicken – available on the okazu, or side dishes menu – and it’s a beauty, the meat marinated overnight in buttermilk, fish sauce, plum sugar and garlic. Fried to a golden crunch, the knobbly batter gives way to supremely juicy flesh. Offset the richness with cabbage salad, featuring crisp chunks seasoned with fine shavings of katsuobushi and pops of wasabi peas.

Raw octopus marinated in wasabi makes for a supreme entree too, the sticky tentacles served with lotus chips and corn chips for crunch.

And the name? It’s a phrase said in Japan before every meal, a humble thank you to the earth, sea, farmer and all for the food you’re able to receive. “We say it from the day we are born and say it until the present,” says Kraikangwan. “It is a story of a lifetime. We are Itadakimasu.”

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