Port guide: Avignon, France

Who goes there

Cruises on the Rhone and tributary Saone rivers through southern Burgundy, Rhone-Alpes and Provence are a staple of the European river-cruise scene, and all the main cruise companies such as Avalon, Emerald, Scenic, Tauck, Uniworld and Viking operate here. Itineraries generally sail roundtrip from Lyon, or between Lyon and Avignon or Arles.

Sail on in

Avignon presents a fine picture from mid-river. You’ll see the truncated Saint-Bénézet Bridge made famous in a children’s song, medieval city walls and the hulking papal palace behind. When all eyes are on the eastern riverbank, cast yours in the other direction to Villeneuve les Avignon and its gargantuan crenellated castle.

Berth rites

Avignon doesn’t have a cruise terminal, but don’t let that bother you. You simply step onto the quay, walk across the road and enter the old town through a gate in the impressive walls that encircle it. The old town is mostly pedestrianised and easy to explore on foot. Be aware that ships often double dock beside each other, so your cabin view might be restricted.

Going ashore

Medieval popes put this southern French town on the map by building a mighty residence where they lived in exile for a century. Their austere palace, more fortress, is empty of furnishings, but your cruise tour guide will help bring it to life. French students will know the children’s song about dancing on Avignon’s bridge, a medieval ruin with a dainty chapel. The cafe- and shop-filled town is enclosed in defensive walls and towers. The best museum is Musee Angladon for its 19th- and 20th-century French paintings.

Don’t miss

North of the papal palace and just past the unexciting cathedral is the Jardin des Doms atop Avignon’s highest point, and right above the river. It’s a pleasantly leafy retreat when you need a respite from sightseeing, with a small cafe beside a duck pond, numerous benches and statues of obscure French notables. The views are great. On a clear day you can spot Mont Ventoux, at 1909 metres the highest peak in Provence.

Get active

Avignon is a great town for walking and that may suffice as you soak up the street life and medieval architecture. You can, however, hire e-bikes (or borrow one from your ship, if available) and pedal along the river. A popular shore excursion will take you kayaking at the 1st-century Pont du Gard, a World Heritage aqueduct.

Retail therapy

Most of the tourist-oriented shops in Avignon are devoted to lavender products, olive oil and jars of tapenade, but the town is no tourist trap. You’ll find quite a range of boutiques selling local fashion labels, textiles and homewares, plus an outlet of the Provence perfumier Fragonard. For a sweet treat look for the local speciality papalines, a herbal liqueur-infused chocolate truffle with a hint of honey, often coloured pink or blue.

Further afield

Wine is a focus of Rhone River cruises, and from Avignon excursions take you to the vineyards and a cellar door or two at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which produces a legendary, heavy-bodied red wine. The Roman-era aqueduct at Pont du Gard is a superb sight; so are Provence’s lavender fields, but only in high summer. Another option is the Chateau de Grignan, a Renaissance palace atop medieval fortifications famous for its associations with the Marquise de Sévigné, whose letters are masterpieces of French literature. The town below is small but pretty, and below that spread lavender fields.