Port guide: Bodrum, Turkey

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Brian Johnston

This port set in a stunning bay on a gorgeous coastline has become a glamorous resort town for wealthy Istanbul residents and international jetsetters.

History lesson by the bay … Bodrum Castle was built by the crusading Knights of St John.Alamy

Who goes there Large ships from the likes of Royal Caribbean and Virgin Voyages do occasionally call in here, but Bodrum is mostly visited by the smaller ships of premium and luxury lines such as Azamara, Emerald, Explora Journeys, Oceania, Seabourn, Scenic, Silversea and Windstar. Most are sailing itineraries in the eastern Mediterranean or Greek islands.

Sail on in This is one of the Mediterranean’s most glorious bays, so don’t miss it. You sail into a ring of blue hills with Bodrum’s spill of white cubist houses and crusader castle straight ahead. By the time you approach the dock, ferries to the Greek islands and boats full of day-trippers are heading out of the harbour, creating a friendly buzz.

Berth rites Bodrum’s cruise terminal is tiny and needn’t detain you long, though it fits a modest cafe, shops and a tourist information desk. It’s a two-kilometre walk into town but one well worth the effort, since you follow the promenade that skirts the bay, with fine views of the castle and town, and plenty of cafes and bars if you tire. Some cruise lines offer a shuttle that, given Bodrum’s traffic and one-way maze, can sometimes take as long as walking.

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Going ashore Apart from Bodrum Castle, the town has no particular sights – you can certainly skip the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, once one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, but now a pile of stones. Walk the town instead, from its labyrinthine shop-filled back streets to its busy waterfront. If you care to explore the peninsula, you’ll need a taxi or can take public transport; at fashionable Yalikavak marina you can stickybeak on superyachts.

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Don’t miss The World Heritage-listed castle, built by the crusading Knights of St John, sits in flowery gardens with attendant peacocks and views over the bay. Its Museum of Underwater Archaeology is crammed with treasures and artefacts recovered from shipwrecks that span several millennia – one of the biggest such collections in the world.

Get active You can sail, windsurf, kayak and jet ski and, on the peninsula, horse ride and mountain bike. A three-hour round-trip walk into the hills will take you to some modest ancient ruins, but the views are splendid. The long waterfront promenades that lead all the way from the cruise terminal through town and out the other side might, however, occupy you for half the day – or more if you stop for a swim.

Best bites Bodrum is known for its mandarins, so plunder the market or buy some mandarin-flavoured Turkish delight. The town specialises in smaller versions of ravioli-like Turkish dumplings served with yoghurt, and a kebab variant served with fried potatoes, tomato sauce and yoghurt. Seafood is served everywhere along the waterfront. Bodrum has three Michelin-star restaurants that showcase contemporary Turkish cuisine but, alas, all are inconveniently out of town for day visitors unless you’re touring the peninsula.

Further afield Shore excursions in the surroundings are relatively modest, so you might save you money and simply enjoy the town. However, choices include a visit to a winery on the Bodrum Peninsula, four-wheel drives into the rugged hills, or a visit to Lake Bafa and the ruins of ancient Heraklia. You can also sail in the bay on a traditional wooden gulet. Some cruise lines offer shore excursions to the ruins of Greco-Roman town Ephesus but, while Ephesus is certainly outstanding, it will be a 2.5-hour drive each way. Kusadasi further up the coast is the more usual port for Ephesus excursions.

Brian JohnstonBrian Johnston seemed destined to become a travel writer: he is an Irishman born in Nigeria and raised in Switzerland, who has lived in Britain and China and now calls Australia home.

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