Port guide: Colombo, Sri Lanka

This city is often overlooked on Sri Lankan itineraries but is vibrant, beach-flanked and a showcase of colonial architecture and buzzing contemporary life.

Who goes there While Colombo is only an occasional port on cruise itineraries, a good range of cruise lines visit, including Holland America, MSC, Oceania, P&O Cruises UK, Regent Seven Seas and Viking. Ships are often on world cruises or on itineraries that sail down the South-East Asian coast towards Australia, or across the Indian Ocean towards Africa via the Maldives and Seychelles.

Sail on in You get a gritty arrival into Colombo, whose harbour is often busy with container ships, and where dockyards resound with bangs and groans. Still, you can spot temple tops and church spires rising behind all the stacked containers on the quaysides. The lurching dance of harbour cranes is almost balletic.

Berth rites Nearly all ships dock at Queen Elizabeth Pier, which gets you within walking distance (about 15 minutes) of the key Fort district. Pettah and Galle Face are twice as far, so you’d be better off in a taxi, given the heat. The terminal is basic but has a waiting area and shops. This is a busy working port with no visitor amenities and you’ll have to take a shuttle to the exit before you start walking, or hail a taxi or tuk-tuk. Traders crowd the exit gates, so hone your haggling skills.

Going ashore Fort district is today’s downtown and has many Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial-era buildings mixed with government offices, department stores and hotels. You’ll find interesting shopping in nearby Pettah, whose cobbled streets are lined by boutique shops and market stalls. The Dutch Museum, Wolvendaal Church and St Anthony’s Church are worth a look. Meanwhile, Colombo National Museum has a fine collection of Sinhalese art, as well as exhibits covering everything from Buddhism to botany. Nearby, Cinnamon Gardens features leafy, villa-lined streets.

Don’t miss Seaside promenade Galle Face Green was laid out by the British for horse racing, cricket and polo, and is now the go-to open space for locals who fancy a stroll, a game of street cricket, kite flying, picnicking or hand-holding at sunset. It’s a great place for people-watching and for sampling Sri Lankan street snacks such as fresh mango with salt and pepper, egg hoppers, fish buns, and coconut custard.

Get active You can walk, jog or cycle along Galle Face Green or in Viharamahadevi Park or Independence Square but Colombo isn’t otherwise a great city for active pursuits, thanks to its heat and crowded streets.

Best bites You won’t be short of flavour if you tuck into Sri Lankan cuisine, which uses abundant fresh spices (especially green chillies), dried fish flakes and coconut milk. Rice and flatbread with variations on curry – often several, served as side dishes – form the staple meal, usually served with caramelised onion relish and lime pickle. Curries can be fiery, so beware. Fish and crab curries are Colombo specialties. Restaurants along Mount Lavinia Beach in the southern suburbs have great seafood. Leave room for desserts based on coconut, tropical fruits, honey and treacle.

Further afield Unfortunately the big cultural and archaeological attractions of Sri Lanka are well inland, and organised excursions won’t take you that far. The chief option is a visit to the elephant orphanage at Pinnawala or the temple at Kelaniya, one of three places on the island allegedly visited by Buddha. Another option is a visit to a tea plantation, or a boating eco-tour on the Madu Ganga River to spot monkeys and abundant bird species. Don’t bother with “day at the beach” options – they won’t impress Australians.