Prada opens Milan Fashion Week with the skirt at the heart of its SS27 collection

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week officially opened its SS27 season today, and there was only one name capable of setting the tone: Prada. Taking the coveted opening slot at Fondazione Prada for the first time in years, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons delivered a collection that was equal parts undone and utterly deliberate—proof, as ever, that the house’s genius lies in making imperfection look like the most desirable thing in the world.

The Mood: Beautifully Undone

Nothing here was polished for polish’s sake—silhouettes were pulled off-axis, proportions displaced, and tailoring left looking almost interrupted as it was caught in mid-moment rather than finished. It’s the kind of tension Prada does better than anyone: precision colliding with disorder, sophistication laced with a little friction. Shirting, the house’s most dependable staple, was seen twisted and reworked, while leather, lace and check moved through the collection in combination with red, green, purple and mustard. The result felt sensual without leaning into the obvious, the sort of wardrobe that rewards a second look.

Prada

The Standout: Skirts, Head to Toe

The skirts are having an undeniable moment! All 63 looks featured one, with not a single trouser in sight. Think of micro-minis, fluid midis, sheer organza, sculpted leather and sequin pieces, styled belted, split and layered beneath trench coats or left to move freely. The house displayed the obsession with skirts this season.

The overall energy leaned sultrier than we’ve seen from Prada in recent seasons, opening on a striking red high-slit skirt paired with a simple black bra, with bralettes and thigh-high slits recurring throughout the collection, a distinctly confident, close-to-the-body kind of glamour.

Between the deliberate undone of Prada’s signature tailoring and a runway built entirely around the skirt, Milan’s opening show set an unmissable tone for the week ahead: sensual, self-assured, and entirely without compromise.

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Images: Supplied

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