Fashion
On a transparent catwalk shot through with bars of white fluorescent lighting, the Prada SS27 collection presented an offering that took that idea of exposure and really ran with it. The result was a show that had a naughty yet cerebral approach to the incorporation of skin as a design element, using the taut bodies of the models as a central component of many of the looks.
This was most obvious in the myriad of colourful bandeau bra tops, slender second-skin bra harnesses that came outfitted with clip-on utilitarian accessories that bobbed along at the side, and bralettes paired with skirts with almost waist-high slits. Even when more modest looks had their moment, they were layered with crystal-embellished silk bras in dissonant hues that were cheekily left flapping open at the back.

This message of laying things bare also popped up in perforated bags and pointy-toed shoes, black patent heels with most of the toes on open display, wrap and pleated skirts that split at the side to show lacy silk negligee panels or a longer stretch of leg — accented by a strip of bejewelled fabric in a strong contrasting shade.

And naturally, with so little fabric to focus on above the waistline, the skirt — besides a handful of ’90s-style leather coats and roomy jackets — became the centrepiece of this show. Designer Miuccia Prada is famously a personal fan of the skirt and rarely seen in anything else, so she understands first-hand the functional power of the garment. While her creative counterpart Raf Simons’s aesthetic of sharp, clean-lined designs came in handy when balancing proportions against the embellishments, abstract prints, and thicker fabrics. And as both designers are known for their love of subverting the codes of clothing staples, taking on the skirt and turning it into a study on female sartorial freedom felt very on brand for Prada.
Between the bare skin and the effortless mobility inherently found in all of the show’s proposed skirt options, this collection was a liberating and decidedly libertine fashion proposition.
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