The common mistake that makes mulled wine awful (and how to make it delicious)

Whether you call it mulled wine, spiced wine or glühwein (my favourite because it translates as “glow wine”), this hot beverage can be a straight path to a cosy winter. It’s a must-sip at European Christmas markets (and Australian Christmas in July festivities), for apres-ski, and during fireside snuggles.

Having said that, mulled wine can be awful. You can’t make bad wine into a good drink, and there’s nothing pleasant about inhaling hot vinegar. Brandy and port are often added to “correct” the mixture: if they’re cheap and nasty, no amount of fireplace chic will turn ick into ooh.

So, how do you make it taste delicious? Just as with cooking, use wine you’d you’d actually want to drink. Don’t overspice or oversweeten, heat rather than boil, and never reheat yesterday’s tipple.

At Sydney bottle shop and bar Thirstville, owner Todd Norcott starts serving warm, spiced drinks every June. “We do mulled wine Friday to Sunday one week, then mulled cider the next,” he says. “We make it in an urn, then put a sign on the pavement, but the best advertising is the smell: the spice aroma permeates the building, and people order it on impulse.”

His weekly recipes are fluid, drawing inspiration from the neighbourhood. “There are three really good Vietnamese grocers around here,” he says.

While the exact blend of clove, cinnamon, star anise, and mandarin peel isn’t set in stone, the wine choice is non-negotiable. “We always use a decent wine, something with body and tannin but fruit-forward. Grenache and tempranillo are ideal. They’re sweet enough, but if you use something like a malbec, you might want to add a bit of sugar.”

How to make your own mulled wine

INGREDIENTS

• 1 bottle medium-bodied red wine, such as grenache or cabernet merlot
• 1 orange, zest peeled in strips and juice squeezed
• 1 pear, peeled, cored and quartered
• ¼ cup sugar
• ¾ cup water
• 1 allspice berry
• 1 cardamom pod, crushed
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 4 black peppercorns (or Australian pepperberries)

METHOD

1. Warm the ingredients gently in a saucepan over low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally and ensuring it doesn’t come to the boil.
2. Strain the liquid into glasses or mugs.

Tips and variations

• Swap the orange for mandarin, and adjust spices to taste (cloves are traditional, too).
• Add a couple of tablespoons of brandy for extra kick.
• The cooked fruit makes a lovely topping for rice pudding, or can be served with cream or ice-cream.
• Use apple cider instead of wine. You can also use non-alcoholic cider.

Recipe by Dani Valent

Photo: Greg Elms (first published in Entertaining with Dani Valent)