The stunning French train station with an equally stunning restaurant

The station

Paris Gare de Lyon, Paris

The journey

Paris Gare de Lyon to Nice-Ville on the TGV Inoui premium high-speed rail service. The 684-kilometre trip takes around five hours and 45 minutes.

The departure

One of the most beautiful belle epoque buildings in the French capital, this station in Paris’ 12th arrondissement was completed in 1901 by architect Marius Toudoire at a time when luxury travel was on the rise. Now, about 150 million passengers a year hop on its high-speed TGV trains to southern and eastern France. The taxi and Uber drop-off is conveniently located directly at the escalators that go up to Hall 3 concourse, connecting to the platforms on Hall 1 and 2, but it’s worth stepping outside to get a full view of this beauty’s large arched windows, 64-metre four-face clock tower and ornate carvings.

Safety + security

I arrive about 45 minutes before my departure at 9.09am. It’s nowhere near as chaotic as Paris Gare du Nord was when I arrived in the city five days earlier amid crowds, sirens and aggressive transport pushers. In comparison, this station feels expansive and calm, and I have plenty of personal space while I wait. There’s no security or gates to pass through until you enter the platform. There’s a police station located at Hall 1 and a Lost and Found in Hall 3.

Food + drink

If time permits, dine on foie gras and beef tartare at the station’s heritage-listed restaurant Le Train Bleu. This 125 year-old spot, where set menus start at €57 ($93) a person, is as French as can be. There are gilded ceilings and dining rooms decorated with frescoes of French cities and regions painted by prominent art nouveau artists of the time. Otherwise, grab sandwiches, nuts, salads, sweets and sushi from the Monop’daily to eat on-board. In Hall 3, you’ll find McDo (McDonald’s), and while the “Royale with Cheese” immortalised in Pulp Fiction is no longer on the menu, you can tuck into the next-gen version, Cheeseburger Royal (a quarter pounder), instead.

Retail therapy

Save your euros for Paris’ flea markets and department stores. Sephora is handy for emergency cosmetics or make-up, and you can pick up a box of desserts and pastries for the ride at patisserie chain Aux Merveilleux de Fred. Beware, parents: there’s a Pop Mart vending machine in Hall 2 (fortunately, it doesn’t sell Labubu).

Passing time

There are few places to sit in Hall 2 unless you’re dining, such as at French cafe Paul. I use my time perusing the extensive selection at Monop’daily and suss out the loo. It costs €1 ($1.65) to access the toilet, but thankfully you can use a card or Apple Pay.

Boarding

Everyone gathers near the board in the Hall 2 concourse until the platform is announced about 20 minutes before departure. I’ve booked this journey as part of my Eurail pass (and paid separately to reserve a seat). I use my QR code to enter through the gates and once again when the attendant passes through the double-decker train.

The verdict

There’s nothing stressful about navigating this train station. Yes, it screams “tourist”, but if you’re departing from Gare de Lyon, a meal amid the grandeur of its historic restaurant is a must, even if only to admire the impressive art and decor.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled as a guest of Eurail. See eurail.com