The tiny sliver of Singapore that time (and developers) forgot

Singapore seems to gain a new architectural wonder every other day, and its continued growth should come as no surprise. Since gaining independence in 1965, Singapore has rapidly transformed into one of the world’s wealthiest countries. Mudflats have morphed into billion-dollar structures such as Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by the Bay and various land reclamation projects.

Yet, there’s a sliver of Singapore that’s evaded any sort of cosmopolitan makeover: Pulau Ubin.

Visiting the boomerang-shaped island is like stepping decades into the past. Just 20 minutes from Changi Airport, along the Straits of Johor, the 10-square-kilometre island is a rustic reprieve from the glass-and-steel silhouettes that dominate the mainland. Instead, rugged beauty endures, forests grow and biodiversity thrives. It’s also home to Singapore’s last remaining kampongs (villages), with fewer than 50 residents living in wooden, stilted houses scattered throughout the island.

Getting to Pulau Ubin is the true definition of living life in the slow lane. From the Changi Point Ferry Terminal, it’s a 10-minute journey on a bumboat – a diesel-guzzling, engine-roaring relic, a stark contrast to the sleek transport the country is known for. Unlike the MRT transit system’s strict timetable, there are no scheduled departure times; the small chugging boat sets sail once there are nine to 12 passengers, with tickets $S4 ($5) one way.

Pulau Ubin is far from the futuristic Singapore promoted. A lofty canopy covers the island; there’s no skyscraper in sight. The pier is metres from Pulau Ubin’s main thoroughfare: a narrow bitumen road aligned with timeworn two-storey shophouses, simple eateries, and tin-roofed shacks. A long-tailed macaque rummages through a street bin for food, a casual breach of Singapore’s strict laws around littering and public health.

Another unusual sight is the lack of traffic. The island is mostly car-free, though a handful of taxi vans operate. To get around, I rent a bike for $S15 ($18) to pedal towards the island’s ecological highlight: Chek Jawa Wetlands.

Long before it was touted as an outdoor lover’s paradise, Pulau Ubin (Malay for “Granite Island”) served as an industrial hub. In the 19th century, its granite quarries lured Chinese and Malay settlers, while surrounding areas flourished with coffee, coconut, rubber, and tobacco plantations. Tidal rivers were dammed to support the local fishing industry. What was once five islands eventually amalgamated into Singapore’s second-largest offshore island.

Things took a turn in the late 20th century, with the once-prosperous island in a state of decline. Its main economic driver, the last granite quarry, ceased operations in 1999, spurring a natural resurgence.

Today, the island is managed by the National Parks Board (NParks). Nature has healed industrial scars, transforming former quarries into emerald freshwater lakes. The new pools attract a diverse array of wildlife, including 141 bird species, such as the prehistoric-looking oriental pied hornbill.

I cycle 40 minutes, with the soaring canopy intermittently shielding me from the tropical rains, on my way to Singapore’s richest ecosystem. En route is Butterfly Hill, a knoll with 140 butterfly species. A convenience shop sells fresh coconut water, another echo of Singapore’s rural past.

Chek Jawa Wetlands can be appreciated from all angles. A 600-metre boardwalk traces the shoreline and leads into a 500-metre loop through tangled mangroves. For an elevated perspective, I climb the 21-metre-high Jejawi Tower, which floats above the island’s soaring green forest. Singapore looks remarkably good au naturale.

Back on the mainland, I finish the day at Changi Village Hawker Centre. Built in 1975, the 24-hour food court exudes old-school charm with its pocket-sized family-run stalls and flickering decades-old lightboxes. The atmosphere is lively, with its pale-pink mess hall filled with locals slurping clear fish ball soups and springy mie goreng noodles for less than $S10 ($12). For a country on a relentless upward trajectory, its wealth is also found in its simplest pleasures.

THE DETAILS

FLY
Singapore Airlines flies to Singapore from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns, Adelaide, Darwin and Perth. See singaporeair.com

The writer was a guest of the Singapore Tourism Board.