Tight business class seats, but US crew (and food) exceed expectations

The airline: United Airlines

• Route Sydney to Los Angeles, flight UA842
• Frequency Daily, from Sydney
• Aircraft Boeing Dreamliner 787-9
• Class Polaris Business; seat 3L, window
• Flight time 13 hours and 40 minutes, departs 15 minutes late

Checking in

The business class line moves at a snail’s pace, with about 20 people ahead of me and staff eagerly asserting their queue management skills so as not to block the path. After about 20 minutes, one of them approaches and asks if I’ve checked in online, which I have (via the user-friendly United app). He takes my digital boarding pass to a Premier self-check-in kiosk, prints my bag tags and directs me to the empty Premier check-in area.

Baggage

Two checked bags weighing up to 32kg each for business class passengers, plus one carry-on piece and a personal item. Accumulators, rejoice: there are no weight limits for cabin items, just size restrictions.

Loyalty scheme

United’s MileagePlus (part of the Star Alliance) is free to join and members can spend points on extras such as in-flight Wi-Fi and checked bag fees. In Sydney, business class passengers have access to both the Air New Zealand lounge and the Singapore Airlines lounge. There’s no priority boarding for business class passengers from our gate, as we arrive via bus.

The seat

The business cabin has 48 seats in a 1-2-1 configuration. I’m in 3L, and although the seat is much tighter than some competitors, it has the feel of a private suite, is snug to the window and angled straight. The even-numbered seats point towards the aisle. My seat is 78 inches (198cm) long and 20.5 inches (52cm) wide, and transforms into a cotton-wool-soft lie-flat bed, with sumptuous Saks Fifth Avenue bedding, including two pillows (one smaller and one memory foam), a mattress pad and two blankets. The blue and grey soft PJs have an official aura about them, like I’ve been recruited to one of NASA’s training camps. A Brooks Brothers amenities kit features high-end Perricone MD products. There’s little storage other than a small cubby on the side.

Entertainment + tech

It’s tres LA. The 16-inch (40.6cm) screen is stocked with award-contenders, and there’s an Apple TV section and a “Perfect Plane Viewing” category. Wi-Fi messaging is free, with more comprehensive packages available from around US$9.99 ($14) for two hours.

Service

United excels in this department, approaching what can so often be a stuffy experience with a refreshing brand of American hospitality that immediately breaks the ice. The crew members are efficient, bubbly and have a great sense of humour.

Food

Sparkling wine is served before take-off, champagne is offered in the air. I have low expectations, but the food is so good, it tops my first class experiences on a Middle Eastern airline. I’m not aware of the option to pre-order, but my preference of gremolata-crusted barramundi with farro risotto and grilled asparagus is available. It’s served with warm, crusty bread and a Tuscan vermentino. When the crew rolls out United’s signature sundae cart for dessert I feel like a child again. There are tapas options available throughout the flight.

Sustainability

Through a number of initiatives, including its sustainable aviation fuel program, United aims to reduce emissions to net zero by 2050, without relying on voluntary carbon offsets.*

One more thing

From March, United will launch its next-gen business class cabins in some of its Dreamliner 787-9 fleet, which features such as Polaris Studio suites and caviar service.

The price

From $11,440 Sydney to LA return in business class.** See united.com

The verdict

It’s not the most luxurious business class cabin I’ve travelled in, but the exceptional food and refreshing service make this one of the most joyful ways to fly.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer flew with the assistance of United Airlines.

*For more information about air travel and sustainability, see iata.org

**Fares are based on those available for travel three months from the time of publication and subject to change.