Wa Gyuto may be just a couple of blocks from Clovelly Beach, but it’s the smoky small bars of Tokyo’s back alleys that this sun-filled, modern restaurant looks to for inspiration. The vibe tends to the greatest hits: Stevie Wonder and golden-era Beach Boys on the speakers, tried and true Japanese small plates on the menu.
There’s chicken karaage, of course, and it’s a banger, the gnarled, bronzed orbs of juicy thigh meat crackling with every bite. Agedashi tofu is another exemplary version of a staple, the crisp, delicate cubes perfect vessels for soaking up the refined dashi.
A sushi section has stadium status, too, but then there are deeper cuts to go with it: precisely sliced kingfish sashimi with the zing of native lime, say, or twice-cooked duck breast atop tart umeboshi soy sauce. Proof that for every classic, there’s a B-side waiting for its moment.
Must-order: Karaage chicken.
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