Fashion
Matthieu Blazy returned to the Grand Palais on Monday evening, the 6th of October, to mark one year as Chanel’s creative director, with Canopy of golden birds suspended above the runway. The seating drew from a southern Italian village where Blazy spends his holidays, bringing a new sense of warmth and intimacy to the grand Parisian space. Seated on the front row were Nicole Kidman and Dua Lipa, while Blazy described the collection not as a historical show but as one about “the histories of Chanel”.
Dua Lipa and Nichole Kidman
The 83 looks unfolded almost chronologically through Gabrielle Chanel’s life, beginning with ornament. Sheer ivory knit slips were pinned with feather corsages, while fringed cardigans with scalloped edges introduced a softer take on the house’s femininity. Masculine codes followed, with raw-edged tailoring and fresh interpretations of the Charvet shirt bringing a sharper contrast.
The voluminous tutu skirts brought a playfulness to the collection—paired with bodices in beige and powder blue tops—while a cloud motif printed organza dress swept into a dramatic trail. Beaded plaid dresses were layered beneath tweed trench coats, and delicate mesh dresses embroidered with tiny flowers were finished with crochet edging.
Coco’s iconic tweed jackets remained the heart of the collection, but Blazy continued to push it somewhere new—cropped jackets appeared with red piping and crystal collars, while sleeveless vests were finished with playful card suit buttons. Among the more experimental developments was a new stretchy tweed made from re-embroidered organza and silk, offering a more relaxed interpretation of one of Chanel’s most recognisable signatures.
Accessories carried the same spirit, with pearl drop earrings, layered shell and bead necklaces and quilted chain-strap bags completing the looks. Dyanira Hurbuscher opened and closed the show, carrying Coco Chanel’s original 2.55 from the house archives, bringing the story neatly back to its beginning.
A year in, and Blazy’s vision for the house is clearer than ever: a Chanel that feels lighter, more versatile and playful, while still holding onto the codes that made the house what it is.
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